Monday, May 18, 2015

A Brief Geologic History of the U.S. (or how we learned to love rock hounding)

     My first introduction to rock hounding and polishing was through my grandfather in the early 60s.  He ran a small tumbler in his basement and introduced me to the wonders of Agates, Tiger's Eye, Opal, and Apache Tears.  I thought they were cool and kept a few for years.  About 10 years ago my best friend started to tumble a few of his own after several trips to Montana where he gave me several really beautiful Montana Moss Agates, probably still my favorite to this day.  To this day I still keep a small moss agate in my pocket as a good luck charm.  Little did I realize that Barb and I would so thoroughly enjoy this passion during our travels that we would actually plan trips around it.  Even before retirement we made several trips to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in search of Lake Superior Agates, Jasper, Unakite, Fossils, Copper, and various lesser known varieties.  The UP is a treasure chest of the geologic history of North America.  The lakes themselves are evidence of the contoured path the great glaciers carved throughout their tour during the Ice Age. 

 
      I am still in the 'rookie' stage, having accumulated basic equipment, but a lack of area to display my treasures.  I do posses a dual 3 pound tumbler. 
 
....as well as a much larger 12 pound tumbler for larger loads of rocks. 
 
 
      Each batch of rocks from start to finish through the rough, fine, pre-polish, and final polish processes takes 8 weeks.  Of course any stones that you have jewelry aspirations for have to be shaped and drilled prior to polishing.  We are only beginning to experiment with this process this summer.   
      There is a virtual catalog of the different types of tumblers and polishing accessories, but suffice it to say that I have been very happy with my Thumler's Tumblers.  Their durable (and quiet) rubber barrels do a fine job with easy access to any spare parts needed.  Of course I now buy my polishing media in bulk sizes.  
      I was also fortunate enough to receive an older table model wet tile saw from my buddy that I equipped with a diamond blade good enough to cut small slabs or cabochons. 
 
 
      Although I would like a bigger, more professional rock saw/lapidary setup, the cost is far too prohibitive for my ambitions.  
      Retirement further broadened the opportunities to explore our passion.  Since April 2014 we spent the summer in Alaska and toured the U.S. from Michigan to Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, and the Dakotas enroute back home.  Rockhounding for us has been leisurely exercise combined with relaxation and enjoying the great outdoors.  In addition, Barb has dabbled into the prospecting arena throughout our travels as well.  She panned for gold in Alaska, although she felt it was too much work for little reward.   
       She has had much more success panning for sapphires in Montana.  In two trips she has accumulated nearly 160 sapphires, including 9 gem quality stones that are being heated and faceted as I write this. 
 
      Interestingly, not all sapphires are naturally blue.  They have to be heat treated to obtain this color.  ONLY the Yogo Sapphires from near Utica, Montana are naturally cornflower blue.  These gems are fairly rare and expensive.  Even Princess Diana had one on her engagement ring; now Prince William's wife, Kate, wears it. 
      We also did a little prospecting along the shores of Ruby Resevoir in SW Montana this past trip.  Garnets are actually small slivers, sometimes pebble size, of Rubys.  Barb didn't find many of any size, but did accumulate nearly an ounce for her work. 

 

      We returned with probably 100 pounds of rocks from our recent winter trip.  This is but a brief sampling and history of some of them, both cut/polished and rough. 
     
 First of all, agates. 
      Most agates occur as nodules in volcanic rocks or ancient lavas, in former cavities produced by volatiles in the original molten mass, which were then filled, wholly or partially, by siliceous matter deposited in regular layers upon the walls. Agate has also been known to fill veins or cracks in volcanic or altered rock underlain by granitic intrusive masses. Such agates, when cut transversely, exhibit a succession of parallel lines, giving a banded appearance to the section. Such stones are known as banded agate, riband agate and striped agate.  In the formation of an ordinary agate, it is probable that waters containing silica in solution—derived, perhaps, from the decomposition of some of the silicates in the lava itself—percolated through the rock and deposited a siliceous coating on the interior of the vesicles. Variations in the character of the solution or in the conditions of deposition may cause a corresponding variation in the successive layers, so that bands of chalcedony often alternate with layers of crystalline quartz.
       Agates collected in Alaska come from various locations.  We explored the regions of the western edge of the Kenai Peninsula where agates are fairly common and come as a result of the frequent eruptions of Mount Redoubt, far to the west.  Salamatof, Nikiski, and Discovery beaches.   There is no real banding in Alaskan Agates due to the fact that the volcanic material, once blasted from Mount Redoubt and other volcanoes cools nearly instantly when landing in Cook Inlet, the Yukon River, or the Gulf of Alaska. 
      Montana Moss Agate…..Montana moss agate is found in the alluvial gravels of the Yellowstone River and its tributaries between Sidney and Billings, Montana. It was originally formed in the Yellowstone National Park area of Wyoming as a result of volcanic activity. In Montana moss agate the red color is the result of iron oxide and the black color is the result of manganese oxide.  Although it looks very much like embedded moss, these are actually dendrites, which in the best samples look very much like little trees or plants.  
      Crazy Lace Agate is a variety of banded Chalcedony, a mineral of the Quartz family. It is predominantly white, with layers of creamy browns, blacks and grays. Some may include layers of yellow ochre, gold, scarlet and red. FOUND SOUTHWESTERN NM
 
Petrified Wood: 
Found in many places......nuff said! 
 
Malachite: 
 

       Malachite is a copper carbonate hydroxide mineral This opaque, green banded mineral crystallizes in the monoclinic crystal system, and most often forms botryoidal, fibrous, or stalagmitic masses, in fractures and spaces, deep underground, where the water table and hydrothermal fluids provide the means for chemical precipitation.  Much like rust is to iron, malachite is to copper.
 
Jasper:  


 
      Jasper is another of the harder minerals that takes many different colors depending on where you find it.  Usually red or brown in the UP, sometimes brown and banded in Texas.  Amazingly, even though Jasper is nearly as hard as agate, it sometimes takes on a delicate appearance.  Picture Jasper is just a jasper, but of such quality that it seems to represent scenery and when polished very nearly a desert picture.   

Geodes:   
 
Rough geodes
 
 
Sliced Crystal Blue geodes
 
Large Baker Ranch Crystal geode 
 

Little Blue geodes
      Geodes are nodules erupted from volcanoes distribute the molten rock, quartz, and silica laden balls miles from the source……sometimes called Thunder Eggs, Dinosaur Eggs, or even Raptor Eggs.  The surprise is what’s inside, from agates to crystal to nearly anything. 


      These are my favorite.  Baker Ranch Geodes which originate from the Baker Ranch, 35 miles SW of Deming, NM.  These geodes exhibit redish brown agate material found rarely outside this area.  It is one of the few areas that exhibit agate centers with rich colors. 
      These are not even all of the rocks we brought back from our latest trip.  Many are still waiting to be cut and polished and some are already in the tumblers.  We get done with our normal summer chores around here in the next couple of weeks we're going to head out again in the RV to the Upper Peninsula in search of..........
 
 

 

 



 

 



Monday, May 11, 2015

Tabasco Smokin' Firehouse Pork Ribs

      Although it is now very much spring here in Northern Michigan and my cooking intuition normally shifts into full gear for BBQ or smoking meat outside, sometimes the weather isn't on the same schedule I am.  There is one rib recipe that I can make anytime of year.  Pork ribs usually scream for wood smoke or an open grill, but Tabasco has a recipe that I have used several times year around, always with great results. 
      McIlhenny and Company holds an annual competition allowing firemen to trade in their Turnout Coats and Scott Packs for aprons and spice racks.  Firefighters across the U.S. compete for the title of America’s “Hottest” Firehouse Cook and a $10,000 Grand Prize in the TABASCO® Cook & Ladder® Competition.  http://www.tabasco.com/mcilhenny-company/community-involvement/cook-and-ladder-competition/  

      Visiting this website you can see there are many tantalizing recipes.  I have had great results with this one, the best part being you can prepare it anywhere/anytime.   The use of Tabasco Chipotle Sauce adds a distinctive SW flavor which is delicious.  This recipe was a finalist in the third national TABASCO® Cook & Ladder® Competition, submitted by firefighter Greg Drazkowski, Menomonie Fire Department, Wisconsin.  These ribs are delicious and have only a mild heat, but are not HOT/Spicy.  You can, however, adjust the Tabasco amounts according to your own tastes. 
      With any BBQ the most important part for any good cook is to select the best possible cut of meat, in this case a nice rack of pork spareribs.  Meaty, with some marbled fat equals taste!   I've never tried it with beef ribs, but it is an interesting idea.
 

      I look for a balanced amount of meat to fat ratio, but will still trim the excess fat and any remaining chine bone interference from the ribs before cooking.  I cut the ribs into 2 rib sections and then place in a large baking pan with some water, covered, and baked for about 90 minutes. 
      Next, you combine all the ingredients into a sauce pan (and it is a considerable amount).  Place it on the stove and bring heat to boil, then turn down to simmer while stirring (I use a whisk).  You have the luxury to simmer these, while occasionally stirring, for awhile if needed. 

      After 90 minutes uncover the ribs and pour desired (but not all) amount of sauce over the ribs and place back into the oven uncovered for an additional 45 minutes.  When finished you may serve with additional sauce on the side if you like.  This meal is delicious with corn on the cob, mashed taters, baked beans, steamed vegees, cornbread, or any combination you might desire. 
These ribs are tender, delicious, and only a bit spicy.....the perfect year-round dish for those looking to satisfy their BBQ Jones amytime.  So, the next time you're hankerin' for ribs and the weather isn't cooperating......here you go.
http://www.tabasco.com/tabasco-recipes/recipe/571/smokin-firehouse-pork-ribs/

WiFi courtesy of my IPhone tethered Hot Spot

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Final Stats First Winter South

     Although we have been on the road since last October, perhaps this should more appropriately be called Final Stats since January 1st of this year.  Since January 1st we have been on the road 119 days throughout New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and back to Michigan once again. 
      We have taken advantage of boondocking, and even moochdocking whenever available.  We utilized solar whenever possible.  In fact our newly installed truck solar panel setup significantly improved our off grid performance.  It not only added 230 watts of power through our Solar Controller to the truck mounted battery bank in camp when set tilted, but provided dependable, continual recharge power in the 'flat position' as well on travel days.  Generator recharge was not often utilized.
 
 
      We arrive home with many life changes, but nonetheless satisfied with our off grid setup so far.  We were on the road all 119 days this calendar year, 66 of which we boondocked.  Minus generator gas we saved $1887 out of a possible $3570; over half!  Again these boondocking stops are rarely primitive, lacking only air conditioning and microwave (without generator) on a 31 foot travel trailer.  A pretty fair deal.  We are home now, not necessarily eager, but ready to attack all the challenges that await us here at home as we rest and regroup this summer in beautiful Northwestern Michigan. 
      We look forward to once again starting out on the road this fall ready to seek new routes, new adventures, and all the new discoveries that we may find.    

Friday, April 17, 2015

The Voyage East: Friends, Prospecting, and Pet Loss....

      We ended our visit to mom's and began our journey east.  Our first day was a leisurely drive 160 miles east over White Pass to Yakima, WA.  There was very little snow on the top; in fact the high Cascades are just the latest range of mountains with a lack of real snow pack this year.  We boondocked in Yakima overnight at the Wal Mart just off I-82.  This is a real nice place for an overnight stay.  There is some highway noise and a lot of trucks use it, but the store allows anyone to camp for up to 3 days.  There is more than ample parking room near the lawn/garden area.  One thing you can nearly always count on in Yakima......lots of sunshine.  We set up boondocking solar protocol, jumpered to the RV, and we were ready to go.  The local security patrol checks up on the entire lot, including RVs hourly and there are plenty of garbage cans along the curbs for your trash.  The McDonalds next to WalMart has WiFi with plenty of signal to use.  The night we stayed we were part of about 7 semi-trucks and another 9 RVs. 
      My purpose for this overnight visit was to visit another high school buddy, Mark Kunkler.  We had not seen each other in 44 years, but it didn't take long to fall back into the old act.  Mark is the City Attorney for Yakima and his wife Lori teaches Math at a local Adult Learning Center.  We chatted for nearly 2 hours reliving old times, catching up, and solving pretty much all the world's problems.  Another episode in a long list of friends revisited this trip......a great time! 


      The next day we were up bright and early and after our morning coffee at McDonalds on our way further east.  I was delighted to fill up at George, WA (yep, that's right George, Washington) with diesel at $2.58/gal., our lowest price since Texas.  This was welcome cause the initial headwinds today beat down our gas mileage pretty good, but in the end we perked back up to 11.3 mpg.  I do have to comment that there are many rest areas in Washington State that also have free RV dump stations, fresh water refills, and overnight boondocking available, quite a nice perk when available.    310 miles later we set up boondocking operations at the Lincoln $50,000 Bar & Casino www.50000silverdollar.com/ in Haugan, MT. 

      Located just off Lookout Pass in the Rocky Mountains on the Idaho/Montana border this micro-town has a truck stop, restaurant, and casino/gift shop.  There is ample RV parking out back with  FREE ELECTRICITY and even horse corrals if you happen to be hauling livestock, which happens frequently in these parts.  Water is available at the truck stop.  This place is unique as an 'old west type' saloon, but is adorned with 50,000 worth of silver dollars throughout the bar.  We arrived to nearly 60 degree temps with sunshine and two furbabies that longed to frolic outside in the sun. 
Photo courtesy of Lincoln's $50,000 Bar

      We settled in for some Turkey Stuffed Bell Peppers, Fingerling Taters, and Steamed Broccoli.  Barb got a chance to wrestle some one armed bandits inside the casino for a bit and then bedtime.  This was just an overnight stay.  The next day we set sail once again for Ruby Reservoir near Dillon, MT. 
      Our stay at Ruby Reservoir was very nice.  The BLM boondocking area is clean and the restrooms are very nice.  We stayed 5 days (another blog chapter).  On our departure the truck digital driver's display informed me that the Emission Control System needed service and that we had 175 miles before our speed would be automatically reduced to 65 mph.  Unfortunately, within another 10 miles it then informed me that the exhaust filter was being cleaned and that the engine power was being automatically reduced!?!?  What this equated to was that the next 95 miles into Bozeman, MT we were only able to maintain about 25-30 mph on the flat lands and no more than 9-10 mph up the hills.  There are 3 passes between Ruby Reservoir and the trip took us nearly 5 hours.  Once in Bozeman we checked into an RV Park for the night.  Unfortunately, the news from the dealer was NOT good.  I had a bad injector and bad turbo.  These were ordered and best case scenario was in the neighborhood of a week wait.  Fortunately, they said everything would be covered by warranty.  I got a rental car.  Nothing like a Toyota Corolla to make you feel out of place for awhile.  We got the truck back after 5 days and it is completely road worthy ready again.  Warranty covered nearly everything including the rental car. 


      God wasn't done with us yet.  For the past 7 months our 13 year old Brittany, Dharma has had a growing cyst that was been recently re-diagnosed as malignant.  What began as a small golf ball size has grown into a tomato size sack on her right hip.  We met with a Veterinarian Oncologist at Mom's in order to find the best possible treatment to get her home to Michigan where we could decide further.  Unfortunately, Dharma's tumor sack had begun to leak blood a couple of days ago and our first night in Bozeman it became clear to us that the bleeding wasn't going to be controllable much longer.  We made the inevitably tough decision the next morning and let her cross the Rainbow Bridge.  We will take her ashes with us as we leave, but it did unfortunately damper the remainder of our trip.  She will be missed.  We'll see you soon, you big old sweetie. 
      We were treated to nearly a foot of snow our 4th day in Bozeman which we hadn't expected or wanted.  At home in Michigan the temps were in the 60s and everyone was raking up their winter yard debris and cranking up the BBQs.  Karma perhaps? 

      Finally, our cat Bodhi had been losing weight for the past 6 weeks, due mostly (we thought) to the stress of Dharma's illness.  Lately, his appetite had been seriously declining as well.  We could only get him to eat baby food and some treats, but not much.  The day after Dharma's passing we took Bodhi into the Vet for a cold he had contracted since our arrival.  We were nowhere near prepared for what we found.  He had lost over half his body weight and blood work revealed only about 15% red blood cells and virtually no platelets.  He did test negative for feline leukemia when he was a kitten, but Bodhi's issues now did seem to stem from his bone marrow.  They checked him in and put him on an IV drip for nourishment and Prednisone to try and fight this.  We checked on him every day.  He was eating their 'Critical Care Cat Food' and sleeping comfortably on his heating pad.  Further diagnosis showed that it was not leukemia at all, but a fungus or infection he picked on our journeys throughout the southwest.  It had infected his lungs and caused his weight loss from 12 to 5 pounds.  He was started on an anti-fungal/antibiotic IV. 
     Bodhi fought bravely throughout, but in the end his little body couldn't fight anymore.  He passed away peacefully in his sleep just 4 days after his sister.  Bodhi was a stray, part of a litter that was dropped off near our farm in the country.  We gave him 11 good years of a loving home and family he otherwise would have never had.  Things have been rough here this week and it will take awhile before Barb and I are back to normal.  It has just been too much pain too fast.  All the wonder and happiness of the last 12 months of retirement travel have been deeply wounded.  We will pick up Bodhi's ashes as well so he can be laid to rest on the farm he loved. 
      We will leave here heading straight home.  Time to start over. 
 
A SPECIAL 'THANK YOU' TO FOOTHILLS ANIMAL HOSPITAL, RESSLER MOTORS, AND SUNRISE RV PARK FOR THE WARMTH, UNDERSTANDING, AND FRIENDSHIP THEY HAVE SHOWN US THIS WEEK. 
 
WiFi courtesty of Sunrise RV Park
     

Thursday, April 16, 2015

Sir Scott's Oasis Steakhouse...Manhattan, Montana

      No journey through Montana would be complete without a meal at one of the MANY good steakhouses in the area.  I had several recommendations from a good friend of ours, but finally narrowed it down to one, Sir Scott's.  One of the deciding factors about our decision to dine here was the proliferation of an urban legend that Barb and I fell in love with. 


      Sir Scott's is located in the small town of Manhattan, MT located about 20 miles west of Bozeman on I-90.  It has been a local favorite and famous throughout the area for many years.  They do take reservations and often there is a wait, especially in the summer tourist season.  Their menu is quite diverse with everything from Alaskan Snow Crab, Pacific Oysters, Halibut, Scallops, Shrimp, and of course every possible steak cut in the 'known delicious universe'.  A meal averages from $11-$30.  We arrived early on a Thursday at 4:30.  It filled up within the next 30 minutes.
     The front door leads you into the lobby; the bar is on the right, with dining area to both the left and right, dining for larger parties is straight ahead. You can also eat in the bar if you like.  It already had a fair population of local cowboys sipping their Barley Pops. We were seated promptly in the dining room on the left by an extremely friendly and efficient host who put a squeeze bottle of ranch on our table, handed us menus, and told us our waitress was on the way.  There is also a relish tray and cracker tray with butter already on each table.

      As we looked around at the brown wood walls we noted they were stained the perfect rustic backdrop for the Charlie Russell prints adorning the walls. The ceilings are sawn wood with exposed beams and the country-curtained windows face Main Street. The tables are covered with vinyl cloth and the placemats are paper with local ads on the borders surrounding the Sir Scott’s Oasis center ad, all contributing to an unpretentious setting for some of the best steak you may ever experience.
 
      After getting myself a cold brew, Barb kicked off the evening by ordering the 12 ounce NY Strip and I dove head first into the 16 ounce (small size) Steak Fingers!  Each meal comes with choice of potato, soup or salad, AND DESSERT! 

 
 

      Barb loved her steak and my steak fingers were 'melt in your mouth' delicious.  The steak fingers come with cocktail sauce, something I am usually not fond of, but as a dipping sauce for the entrée was unbelievable! We have eaten plenty of good steaks in Wyoming, Washington, Oklahoma, Montana, and Texas.....this is as good and maybe even better than any I have ever had!  I seriously doubt that you could ever have a bad meal here. 
     The portions are so generous we took half our meals home.  I just love the doggie bags because they are so basic....just a grocery store veggie bag and a paper bag. Invert the plastic bag over your hand, pick up your leftover item, and revert the bag back off your hand and into the sack it goes.  Sound familiar?  Unbelievably we had room for the small fudge sundae.  Total for this meal including drinks....$48
      But, I digress.  You are by now still curious and left wondering about the local legend.

A lady was at the restaurant with friends waiting for a table.  The wait was about 45 minutes. Lots of other rancher types and spouses already waiting. In comes Ted Turner and Jane Fonda. They want a table. The hostess says they'll have to wait about 45 minutes.  Jane asks if she knows who she is. "Yes, but you'll still have to wait 45 minutes."  "Is the manager in?" she says. The manager comes out, "May I help you?"  "Do you know who I am?", ask both Jane and Ted. "Yes, but these folks have all been waiting already and I can't put you in ahead of them." Then Ted asks to speak to the owner. The owner comes out. Jane again asks "Do you know who I am?" The owner says "Yes, I do. Do you know who I am? I am the owner of this restaurant — and a Vietnam veteran. Not only will you not get a table ahead of all my friends and neighbors here, you also will not be eating in my restaurant tonight or any other night. Good bye." 

There are several variations of this same story, but in the end the result is delightfully the same. 

 Only in America?  ONLY IN MONTANA! 

WiFi courtesy of Sunrise RV Park

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Ruby Reservoir: Garnets & Sapphires

      We love Montana. We come back whenever we can, which since retirement is working out just fine. Montana is the 'Treasure State', which provides Barb and I with plenty of opportunities to rockhound in a setting of pristine western wilderness. This trip we wanted to try our hand at something new in an area we had not previously visited.
      We arrived at Ruby Reservoir averaging a very nice 14.1 mpg towing through the valleys between mountains. The reservoir is located about 50 miles south of Whitehall, Montana between Dillon and Virginia City. Nine miles north of the reservoir lies the little village of Alder Junction which has a bar, RV park, and a small store that has a pretty decent supply of just about anything we'd need including food, water, firewood, diesel, and propane. We watered up the RV for free. This area is known for a good supply of the gemstone Garnet, a cousin of the Ruby. In fact one of the largest Garnet mines in the world is located near here.
      On the east side of Ruby Reservoir is an area of BLM land that is set aside for primitive camping. There is a very nice, clean vault toilet and an abundant area to camp, including some rock style firepits and areas to launch boats or canoes. There is no water supply. We camped on a fairly level piece of gravel near the boat launch area behind some shoreline trees that gave us protection from North winds. We set up our boondocking protocol, positioned the portable solar for the onboard battery, gathered some more rocks to reinforce our firepit, as well as some firewood left by prior campers. The next morning I positioned the truck and tilted up the big solar panel.
      The first day we worked the cut banks of the east shoreline, checking the fallen material as well as working the side bank with our rock hammers. The reservoir was built to provide the local farmer and ranchers with water for hay fields and livestock so the lake levels fluctuate throughout the year. The lake was high due to spring time so checking further out wasn't an option. Barb did find a few Garnets near the waterline, but all were of a small flake, BB, and sliver size. As a bonus we found some Sapphires which were larger, but not much.
 
      We did talk to a couple of fisherman who were doing a very fine job on the local Rainbow Trout. They told us the size of our Garnets were about average and that the largest they had seen was only about the size of a pea. They also told us that the best area for prospecting was currently underwater and that most folks employ a shovel gravel, sift twice, and pan or tweezer method to find gems. This is very much the same method used for Sapphire mining we have done in the past. From then on this is method we used.
 
 
      I had absolutely no luck with the Garnets, but did find a few Sapphires. Barb's 2nd day went better and she began to fill her little vile. That evening we sifted gravel from washed waves at the local boat ramp as this is where Barb found her first stones. Our total bounty was not anywhere near what we had hoped for, but the time was relaxing and well spent. The Ruby River Valley is beautiful and even Dharma and Bodhi seemed to enjoy the area. The next two days Barb searched out small coves that had lots of exposed gravel and this strategy worked very well as she began to find larger stones. In the end Barb had collected about 3/4 ounce of Garnets.
 
      Our total stay was 5 days. The days were pretty fair with temps in the 50s, but the nights were very cold with temps in the 20s & 30s with the battery bank, propane, and RV heater working overtime. Except for our first night where battery bank useage approached 40% and required some generator time for battery bank top off, the solar panels kept us in good shape the rest of the time. There was no signal for phone or Internet of any type so this blog was updated at our next stop. Our plan was to move on to the Yellowstone River from Livingston to Sidney in search of our favorite: Moss Agates.  However, as plans often do.......we were in for a change. 
WiFi courtesy of our Sunrise RV Park
Bozeman, MT
 
 
 
 


Saturday, March 21, 2015

The Olympic Peninsula......Mountains, Beaches, Elk, and Clams

      We visited with mom in Tumwater, WA for about 9 days and then headed out again to do some exploring on our own.  We got some work done around her house and kept her in good meals:  including Basque Rack of Lamb, Wild Boar Ribs, New Mexico Green Chile Pie, Tillamook Apple Cheddar Salad, and Croque Madame. 
      Unfortunately, our visit also included a visit to the local veterinarians office.  Dharma has had a history of cysts and tumors for the past several years, including two malignant ones she had to have removed.  She has had the current cyst for about 11 months now, originally diagnosed as a fatty cyst.  It began the size of a golf ball, but has since grown to 'tomato size' and is beginning to wear on her. We had it checked once again and is now diagnosed as malignant, but non aggressive.  It is not expected to spread.......just grow larger on her hip.  We had it drained and are hoping to make it back home to Michigan to have things resolved.   We do have a follow up with a Veterinary Oncologist in 2 weeks to determine a course of action.  Dharma is nearly 13 years old so we are planning on the best course of pain management care. 
      I haven't been 'around the loop' since I was a young child and my wife has never seen it.  'Around the loop' refers to driving around Washington's Olympic Peninsula.  It may not be as pretty or warm this time of year, but when retired you have to choose your battles.  We departed Tumwater venturing up US Highway 101 (sound familiar?) towards the Kitsap Peninsula to Bremerton and another high school buddy, my old wrestling partner, Tom Ainslie.   Tom was a very good varsity wrestler and I was more of the "dang you're good" JV type of competitor.  He has spent a career in law enforcement and now construction nearing retirement himself. 
      We caught up on old times while his wife, Teri and Barb got acquainted as well.  Tom and Teri love boating, crabbing, and shrimping in Puget Sound and camp whenever they get the chance.  Teri works for the local school district so we also had some tales to share.  It was a great evening!  
 

      Next up for us was a trip up Hood Canal enjoying the sights of the Olympic Range, ending up in Port Townsend.  We ended our boondocking streak at 10 and got a camping spot at the Jefferson County Fairgrounds on the north end of town.  Fort Worden State Park was nearby, but was nearly twice the price and full.  Port Townsend was originally settled as a major shipping and fishing port.  The town is an excellent example of a Victorian Seaport in the U.S.  Much of that architecture has been preserved in the downtown district. 


 
 
 
      There is plenty to do in town including strolling, shopping, dining, beach combing, and just plain enjoying the waterfront.  We picked up a few souvenirs and then had lunch at the Lighthouse Café.  If you are ever in PT I recommend dining there.......nothing fancy, but delicious food at a reasonable price.  Their Hot Corned Beef Sandwich is one of the best I have ever eaten! 
      The amount of deer in this area is amazing.  Apparently there is no hunting within the local area as there are literally hundreds of Blacktail Deer roaming wherever they please.  I don't just mean the parks and rural areas, but even in the old town hillside areas we saw them in several yards.  You have to expect to see them nearly wherever you drive. 
      From Port Townsend we traveled an easy 50 miles west to Heart o' the Hills Campground just 5 miles south of Port Angeles.  We were only staying one night, but this would be our staging point to travel up to Hurricane Ridge.  Unfortunately, despite what the Visitors Center told us, the campground was NOT open yet so we retreated into town to find an RV campground.  Amazingly, the road to the top was open this time of year.  In fact there isn't much snow in the Olympic Range at all this year.  They have had an incredibly mild winter.  Their snow pack is only at 3% of normal!  Going to be a long, hot, dry summer.  Hurricane Ridge is located near the top of the range and offers great views into the center of Olympic National Park, including Mount Olympus. 


       Next up for us we traveled on westward, unfortunately passing up some stuff we just didn't have time to visit, but we did make a couple stops around Crescent Lake as it was just so beautiful this morning. 
 
      We ended up in the town that 'Famous Vampires' hail from:  Forks, Washington.  We camped just south at Bogachiel State Park, full hookups:  $25.  Again, we used this locale as a base camp to explore the surrounding area.  First up we visited the Quileute Reservation, most notably La Push.  It was a warm, but windy day and the waves were pretty active, but there were no surfers.  Dharma gets as much beach time as she wants this trip. 

 
 
 
       We did get some local area sightseeing in, shopping for souvenirs for Barb's 'Twilight' fan niece, as well some laundry, and saw plenty of elk in the area.  There are also plenty of fisherman on the local rivers as the spring steelhead season is just getting warmed up.  This is the first place during our entire trip where we found diesel fuel cheaper than unleaded!  If only that were true everywhere.
       From here we headed south towards Gray's Harbor and most notably Westport where this month's clam season and cooperating tides began.  The drive down was very wet and windy.  It is never any fun packing or unpacking in the rain, but this day we got to do both.  Thank God for Gore Tex raingear and a very patient wife!  There is no boondocking in the Grays Harbor area other than WalMart which is 20 miles from the beach so we stayed at the Westport Inn RV Park.  Located near the center of town with close proximity to the beach with full hookups, cable TV, WiFi, showers, firepit/wood, and a fish cleaning station:  $210 for 8 days. 

      Pacific Razor Clam digging in Washington takes place during any month with an 'R' in it......(i.e. January, September, etc.)  These cooler weather months negate the worry about any type of marine toxins that otherwise might be present.  Because of the climate, most digging takes place during rainy, foggy, or even stormy weather, but not always.  You should usually count on getting wet regardless.  When the tides are good literally thousands of people flock to the beach to get their share.  It can still get cool on the beach due to the winds so dress accordingly.  Clam digging is not necessarily a skill, but a lesson in endurance, mostly due to the weather and tides.  Obviously, the lower the tide the better, exposing more clam 'shows'.  A show is the dimple-like depression in the sand that a clam makes when the tide recedes.  The show is caused by the clams feeding or respiration loosening the sand above its neck. 

      The clams are usually somewhere between 1 and 2 feet deep.  Although shovels are the most common method of digging, I like to use a clam 'gun' which you place over the hole and then press into the sand and pull out creating suction pressure much like a straw.  Sometimes the clam shows up in the sand withdrawn, but most times you have to get on your knees and go after them manually with your arm as deep into the hole as you can reach.  Sometimes they get away.   Yeah, the clams make this a participation sport.   
 
        Our first two days of digging provided very nice weather, but with mixed results.  Day 1 was a marginal tide with smaller clams while Day 2 had a lower tide (plus we tried a different location) and much nicer clams.  We did get our 30 clam limit both days.  Mid week another friend of mine from high school and her husband arrived to dig with us the remainder of the week.  I have known Annette for many years, but only recently reconnected.  Her husband Clarence is also an avid sportsman and seasoned clam digger.  They turned us on to some different areas to try our luck at as well as providing us with another couple who enjoyed playing pinochle as much as we do. 

      As the week progressed digging turned out to be more of a challenge as many more people arrived to dig each day and finding 'shows' was more work.  We always got our limits though, with Day 4 being our best; 45 clams in 25 minutes with literally clam 'shows' everywhere you looked. 
      We cut all of our clams up and packed them into Vacuum Sealed bags of Diggers, Clam Strip Meat, Chowder Meat, and just plain Steak Meat.  In the end we had frozen nearly 19 pounds of clam meat. 
 
 
      The final accoutrement of these clams is the kitchen preparation.  Perhaps the best part about Razor clams is that they are a large, meaty treat.  They are delicious cooked several different ways, but my favorite has always been breaded and fried.  You can steam them, use them in chowder, pasta, fritters, and even smoked.  No matter how you prepare it, razor clams provide a delicious meal. 



 

http://wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/shellfish/razorclams/recipes.html  Barb and I look forward to enjoying the bounty of our harvest throughout our travels till our next visit home......Yum Doggies! 
 
WiFi via Verizon HotSpot and courtesy of Westport Inn & RV Park