Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Haines, Alaska


      This is one of those places we didn't visit on our last trip and as such wanted to see this time.  Haines Junction is a mere 96 miles west of Whitehorse on the Alaskan Highway at MM 1014.  We overnighted at the Fas-Gas Station's small seasonal RV park at CA>US$22.50 with full hookups both to and from the coast.  The village lies on the edge of the vast and spectacular Kluane National Park and Reserve.  From here it is just 150 miles down Yukon Hwy. 3 to the village on the coast.  US Customs and Border lies 40 miles north of Haines.  It is important to note this crossing is only open 8 a.m. till 10 p.m.  No 24 hour crossings.  
South on Highway 3

The border 40 miles outside Haines, AK
      The road is in good shape for traveling with a large RV and passes by countless views and panoramas of the nearby Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park and the villages of Klukshu, Klukwan, and Covenant Post before arriving in one of the most scenic villages I have ever seen.   About 8 miles north of Haines construction begins with many miles of dusty gravel.  We arrived dirty and dusty.  Once in the village you are only 19 miles south on the bay from Skagway, AK or 68 nautical miles north of Juneau as well.  The lack of roads in this archipelago prohibits most travel aside from plane or ferry. 
      The village itself was originally inhabited by Tlingit Tribes until contacted by Russian fur traders in 1741.  Once gold was discovered further north the area grew considerably, threatening the local culture.  Friction and border differences between the U.S. and Canada resulted in a US Army post being built here in 1902 and remained until 1947.  The culture remains native to this day with the Chilkat Tribes inhabiting the area.  The Tlingit Tribes were the original architects of the Totem Pole and many examples of this still inhabit the area.  

     We set up camp at Haines Hitchup RV Park.  They offer 92 full hookups on grassy, level spots, cable TV, WiFi, restrooms, showers, and laundry.  This is at a U.S price of $51 @ day, pricey.  There are only two RV parks in town; choices are limited.  While here we were once again in the land of Verizon so we called home and family.   The Southeast Alaska State Fair was in full swing when we arrived so the town was full.  We were unable to attend as they combine the fair with their Annual Craft Beer Festival and so advance ticket sales were limited.  While here we visited the Northern Bald Eagle Preservation Center Chilkat Preserve, the Jilkaat Kwaan Tlingit Heritage Center, and of course shopping was in order for the chauffeur's wife.  No complaints from me either, I bought a new bitchin' fillet knife from a local craftsman.  
Welcome to Haines, Alaska
Haines, Alaska
Cruise ship waiting on tides

Chilkat River Eagle
Jilkaat Kwaan Tlingit Cultural Center
      My menu for this stop included Fried Catfish, Broccoli Raab Calzones, and Shakshuka, among other things.  Still whittling down those freezers. 
Broccoli Raab Garlic Sausage Cheese Calzones

Shakshuka Queso Fresco Vegetable Hot Dip

      In addition we dined in the village at the Bamboo Room for lunch.  Barb had a delicious Bacon Bleu Cheeseburger while I went with the Halibut Fish n Chips.  Great food, but I always initially forget the impact of seasonal tourism and SURPRISE prices.  Lunch was $42.  We had a good couple of days here exploring this isolated area.  I encourage a visit if you are coming to Alaska and can spare the time.  We paid $4.09 @ gallon for diesel prior to departure.  We are off now; back to Haines Jct. then NW to Tok, Alaska with one day boondocking along the shores of Kluane Lake enroute.

"When students are taught as respected human beings instead of being talked at, and these are two different things, students will respect you and want to work and understand more" 
David Katzeek, Tlingit 

WiFi courtesy of Haines Hitch UP RV Park




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