The Heart of It All

 

     For anyone that has cooked, grilled, and smoked beef the past couple of years has been a roll of the dice.  It has long been accepted that the majority of American beef has been Herford, but the best beef in the good old USA has been Angus, most notably Black.  The past 20 years have changed that.  Kobe beef from Japan is the revered best of the best.   

      Kobe beef is Wagyu beef from the Tajima strain of Japanese Black cattle, raised in Japan's Hyōgo Prefecture around Kobe city, according to rules.   The meat is a delicacy, valued for its flavor, tenderness and fatty, well-marbled texture.  Breeding for this meat is strictly controlled by the Kobe Beef Marketing and Distribution Promotion Association.

      In 2009, the USDA placed a ban on the import of all Japanese beef to prevent the Japan foot-and-mouth outbreak from reaching US shores.  The ban was relaxed in August 2012 and thereafter Kobe beef was imported into the US for the first time.  The cost of Kobe beef in Japan eliminated anyone except the wealthy from eating it.  Once imported here the elevated cost can still vary from $139 for a single 1" 10 oz ribeye steak all the way up to $399 for a single 1" 20-24 oz ribeye steak.   US prices run $195 for a NY strip to $349 for a ribeye.  These are only graded as Kobe A5, but not subject to USDA ratings.  You don't really see it much unless special ordered from a reputable butcher.  

      Now for the rest of us.  For years and still Hereford Beef provides the majority of our American marketplace.  First imported into the U.S. Certified Hereford Beef is a premium branded beef program built on the tradition of family farmers and ranchers across the United States. Established in 1995 by a group of Hereford producers, the Certified Hereford Beef® brand is the only Hereford beef brand in the industry owned by an alliance of local Hereford farmers and ranchers. 

      This beef helped the USDA establish quality standards for all beef produced in the US.  It is important to put due weight on these standards when purchasing beef as this only applies to beef raised and butchered in the U.S.  Imported meat will not display this.  They do not state their standards.   Something to think about.   

      Of course the price will accompany the grade.  I will admit that some of the best brisket I have ever made has been from USDA Choice Grade.  Enough fat, tender, and good taste.  

      To date there are 5 million Hereford cattle being raised in 50 countries, with 121, 000 in the U.S. alone providing 5 billion pounds of beef.  Still an economic force with millions of satisfied customers.  

     
       About 100 years ago the U.S. began a swing thru the custom genetics of angus beef, black angus being the best.  Angus is the name of the breed of cattle that was specifically bred from cattle indigenous of Scotland by a man named Hugh Watson in the mid-19th century.  It is believed that nearly all the Black Angus cattle alive today came from the results of Watson's attempts to maximize the black hide of these animals.  In the 1870s these cattle were brought to the United States and by the 1880s, the American Angus Association was founded.

      There are Black and Red Angus, but the Red Angus is not recognized by the American Angus Association and is a much rarer breed. (In fact, breeders are not permitted to register their Red Angus cattle with the American Angus Association.) The Black Angus, or more commonly, Angus, is a black-hided breed without horns. The Angus breed has a number of advantages in the quality and production of the meat, and it quickly became a favored breeding stock to reduce problems of over-breeding in other lines of cattle. Because of this, it has become the most popular breed in the United States since 1978.    

      Retail prices for Certified Angus Beef are about 10% higher than regular USDA choice for stuff like ground chuck, and 10% to 15% higher for steaks.  This is largely determined by the grades of Prime, Choice, or Select.  In fact McDonalds discontinued their short experiment with Angus as not enough people were buying them and they were costing McDonald's too much to continue selling them.

      There are 332, 431 registered Angus cattle in the U.S.  The title will not remain forever.  It is currently being challenged by Wagyu.

  

      Wagyu literally means Japanese cattle.  It is the collective name for the four principal Japanese breeds of beef cattle.  All wagyu cattle derive from crossbreeding in the early twentieth century of native Japanese cattle with imported stock, mostly from Europe.  Akaushi is Wagyu beef.  Wagyu beef is one of the most expensive meats in the world. It features marbling, meaning that streaks of fat exist within the red meat that make it tender and moist, while adding flavor.  Wagyu beef contains a higher percentage of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids and more monounsaturated fats than other beef.  This soft fat has a low melting point and not only creates a wonderful texture but also holds most of the flavor.  Prices can be steep with briskets about $10/lb, Picanha $24/lb, RibEye $50/lb, NY Strip $32/lb.  It can certainly make you rethink your recipe.  There are 40,000 Wagyu presently in the USA with less than 5,000 being considered 100% full blood. 

  

       The extreme marbling of Wagyu, although it is not usually what we judge the appearance of beef by, does provide superior taste as a result of the richness of the fat.  

      For example, Cattlemen's Ranch runs their own beef store in Sabinal, TX I have visited several times.  Their breeding program is precise with a quality product.  "All of our cattle are proudly born, raised, and harvested, Texas beef. We source our cattle through our family’s operation, Nunley Brothers. Through them we have Akaushi cross Santa Gertrudis cattle that help regenerate our family’s herd. Every September we hold a bred heifer sale. Each Santa Gertrudis cross Hereford heifer is bred to a black Wagyu bull. We source our second type of cattle from the calves of the customers who purchase Nunley Brothers heifers. All of our Wagyu is corn finished for a minimum of ONE year to enhance tenderness and marbling.  These are non-hormone treated cattle."  

        About 50% of the US raised beef is exported, mostly to South and Central America as well as Mexico.  Interestingly about 50% of the beef we use is also imported from these same countries.  As perplexing as it sounds the reason is simple.  Most the cuts popular here are not south of the border and vice versa.  Demand dictates the supply.  Brazil is the #1 exporter of beef in the world, although most of it goes to China.  

       Many TV programs featuring kitchen cooking or BBQ will mantra that 'Fat is Flavor'.  Fat itself might not have a distinct taste, but it can help enhance other flavors in food.  For instance, fat can absorb some flavor compounds, changing how they taste.  As you chew the food, the fat releases these compounds slowly.  When you cook fat, it also releases the flavor compounds that it has trapped.  Much like everyone else who cooks, grills, or smokes we're all looking for that edge.  That piece of meat that we love to take to the next level.  Most experiment for years to find that.  I know I do.  This is a tutorial.  Go with your own instincts.  Cook it with love and your skills, you'll be happy-happy, no matter what season it is.  

  

"A steak needs fat to taste great"

Tom Colicchio

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Solar Eclipse 2024: Now that's a photo bomb

       I'm not going to make this a long, involved post except to explain the process of such an event.  This is the 2nd major solar event taking place in the past year and in our case, a very fortunate one.  The path of both events passes right over our winter location here in Leakey, TX.  

      This past fall the crowds expected were not nearly as big as those that actually attended, but the vacancy rate was FULL everywhere.  The event in April didn't change much as there were no vacancies anywhere in our area.  My neighbor was kind enough to put up extra NO TRESSPASSING SIGNS on both our properties.  This spring I figure we'll just delay our northern departure till afterwards in order to enjoy the spectacle ourselves.  We have a prime viewing opportunity at our property.  

      Although I am an experienced photographer, I still did lots of research about such an event and my preparations for it.  I worried quite a bit about the logistics and cost of such an adventure.  I purchased a Hi-Res Solar filter for this a solar event.  Everyone is concerned about the intensity of the sun on eyes and damage, but this same risk applies to cameras.  The intensity of the solar corolla is strong enough to damage a quality digital SLR camera and its processor chip.  This solar filter is the equivalent of 20 stops of neutral density, greatly reducing the amount of light getting through.  In 2017, photographer Sean MacDonald sacrificed a Canon DSLR to prove this point. With a 400mm lens pointing directly at the sun and unfiltered, the camera began smoking within seconds.

      I also prepared by tracking sun locations and times per my location.  I already had a remote shutter control, so I did not have to directly monitor the event for long, so I set things up to practice several times.  I also switched to the digital viewfinder instead of the optical viewfinder for safety.  I shot hundreds of practice pics.  I used my Nikon D7200 with a Tamron 150-600mm lens.  More lens fills the frame.  I shot practice pics at ISO 200, aperture priority and varied f-stops from 5.4 to 8.  All manual focus.  F8 worked the best providing shutter speeds of 1/1000.  I shot the first group by hand cause I'm stubborn and the results weren't as sharp as I would like...DUH.  Amazing to me, I got the best results at 600mm.  2nd group I used the Sirui Composite Tripod with Gimbel Mount.  Results were much better, and I decided I would not use the remote shutter.    

   

Day 1 test shot

Day 2 test shot between breaks in overcast

Day 3 F8 1/1000 at 600 mm finalized

      The day finally arrived and thankfully we did not experience any trespassing issues.  Of course, we stayed out of town and stocked up early. Hotels, motels, RV parks?  Forget it, they've been booked for months.  There were several incidents of folks setting up camp wherever.  No trouble, but I'm sure a chore for the sheriff.  Landowners offering a place to set up were able to charge a premium.   

      Up early with coffee and a good breakfast taco, I was ready.  The forecast was for 90% cloud cover and rain.  We got very lucky as there was overcast but caught enough glimpses between cloud banks to rip some off.  These photos spanned 12:45>1:35 p.m.  I photographed the onset, but not the departure.  

Nikon D7200, 150-600mm lens, solar filter, Sirui composite tripod with Gimbel Mount

       All the shots prior to totality were with ISO 200, heavy filtration, and Raw NEF, F8 @ 1/1000.  At totality I removed the solar filter and shot with settings of F8 @ 1/640 all at 600mm.  

"Three things cannot be long hidden, the sun, the moon, and the truth"

Buddha

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Easter: Pit & Grill

 

      Easter is a great opportunity to fire up the wood pit and make a GREAT piece of meat.  It's just Barb and I anymore and usually for us it's Leg O' Lamb, but this year we changed the game.  We chose a very nice piece of Picanha.  Not a well know piece of beef in this country it is of Brazilian origin but is catching on.   Thankfully here in Texas we can find it reasonably often.  This cut of meat comes from the very top of the beef hind quarter above the sirloin and west of the oxtail where it sits on a large piece of fat.  I have cooked this twice before, a previous chapter in this blog.  Fifty Shades of Retirement:  picanha (richhilts.blogspot.com)

Picanha #8

       Picanha, or sirloin cap, is a great beef cut. It's from the top of the rump, which makes it nice and tender. It has a good amount of marbling, which means it's also juicy and flavorful.  I like to smoke this lathered with Worcestershire Sauce and a good rub.  I smoke it till internal temps are 115F, then wrap and return.  I remove at 125F, rare and then slice and finish searing over the fire according to taste.  This piece was cooked damned near perfect; rare but can be seared on the grill if you want more done.  

      I'm not going into the individual recipes for each part of this meal except to acknowledge their contribution.  

In pit, 115F, ready to wrap

Rested and sliced; perfect crust, nice and pink inside

Seared pieces on grill for Barb's WELL DONE

      Fried potatoes are just that.  You can use Yukon Golds or Redskins, your choice.  I have my best results frying them in a deep skillet with olive oil and covered for additional steaming without burning.  The Mediterranean Green Beans are a delicious blend of fresh beans, FETA, Grape Tomatoes, Pistachios, sliced egg, and a very nice Olive Oil, lemon juice, garlic, and paprika dressing.  The Picanha was rare and fork tender, love fried taters, and Barb's deviled eggs......voile'  He is risen.  

Mediterranean Green Bean Salad

Picanha, Fried Taters, Deviled Eggs

Our first Easter without you, Mom.  God bless you and rest in peace

"Let everything you do be done in love" 

1 Corinthians 16:14

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Carolina Hash; A Tasty Pork Side Dish

 

      Carolina Hash is a different type of cuisine.  Carolina style centers on slow-roasted whole hog barbeque and is one of America's oldest methods of cooking meat.  The lowlands BBQ has a taste varying from Florence and Kingstree over to Myrtle Beach, a spicy blend of vinegar and pepper is standard. The so-called Upstate along the North Carolina border is home to a thin red sauce made from vinegar and tomato, while folks in the counties along the Savannah River prefer a thick ketchup-based version.  I got this recipe from another AWACS veteran at one of the annual picnics; delicious.  

      I did not cook a whole hog but have made this before using a large pork butt roast. I smoke it using Kosmos Honey Killer Bee and Meat Church Honey Bacon.  No injection, nothing else.  About 6-7 hours.  Once your meat is shredded, chopped, and diced small you can proceed with this recipe.  You should have about 5 pounds of meat to begin with, but you can adjust the recipe as needed.  

Deboned and chopped from a 9 lb butt

Rough chopped pile o' pork

3-4 pounds smoked boneless pork butt, shredded

salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil

1/2 medium sweet onion diced

3 garlic cloves, chopped

2 cups chicken broth

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil

1 1/2 medium sweet onion, diced

1 bag diced potatoes

½ cup ketchup

3/4 cup BBQ sauce

1/4 to 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar

2 to 3 teaspoons black pepper

1 to 2 teaspoons hot sauce

6 tablespoons butter

      All these quantities are approximate and should be adjusted if needed.  You want chunky, not sloppy.   Chunk out and shred pork butt from wood pit.  Wipe a Dutch oven or deep-dish skillet clean and add 1 tablespoon of oil to it.  Heat over medium-high heat.  Add onion, garlic, and potatoes and cook until onion is soft.  Add the pork on top of the potato mixture.  Pour in 1 cup of the chicken broth and simmer until the potatoes are soft.  Add more broth if needed.  

Simmering taters and pork

Stir in the remaining ingredients and continue to simmer

      Add the ketchup, BBQ sauce, and 1/4 cup vinegar, 2 teaspoons pepper, and 1 teaspoon hot sauce.  Stir well and cook over medium-low heat for 5 minutes.  Taste the hash and add in more vinegar, pepper, and hot sauce if desired.  Cube butter and add to mixture.  Stir until it is melted and mixed in.  Cook till texture/doneness meets your tastes.  Serve as a BBQ side or on it’s own.  You can have it for breakfast, lunch or even dinner.  Serve with eggs or make a great BBQ Sandwich.  Makes a great leftover OTR.

Tasty, even with my crappy eggs

"I never met a meal I didn't like" 

Miss Piggy

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Colcannon and Corned Beef & Cabbage Soup

 

      We've always gotten locked into corned beef and cabbage for St. Patrick's Day and a couple of times with Guiness Irish Steaks.  This year I wanted to try something different.  Barb endured many hours of my suggestions and finally she agreed to this one.  She loves my cooking but does sometimes tire of my relentless meal planning.  "Good grief, eat a hotdog!", she says.  Love 'dat woman.    

       I am also making Corned Beef and Cabbage Soup (another first for the holiday).  Colcannon is another of those traditional poor man's tater meals from long ago.  Specializing in Yukon Golds with Cream and Bacon, it is quite tasty.  In fact, it is often referred to as Irish Mashed Potatoes, but with a bit of meat can be a casserole.  

Colcannon

3 ½ pounds potatoes, peeled and cubed

½ cup butter

½ cup half-and-half, more if needed

1/2 small Savoy cabbage, finely shredded

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon garlic powder, optional

5 strips bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces or bacon chunks

   

      Place the potatoes in a large pot over high heat.  Pour salted water into the pot until the potatoes are completely submerged.  Bring the potatoes to a boil.  Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork-tender.  Drain and transfer the potatoes into a large bowl.

      While the potatoes cook, fry the cabbage in a skillet over medium heat with a few tablespoons of the butter.  Add the bacon, if using, and stir for 5 minutes until the cabbage if soft and the bacon is cooked.  Set aside.

      Mash the potatoes with a masher, fork, or electric mixer until the desired consistency is achieved.

      In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the remaining butter and the half-and-half until melted and combined, about 3 to 5 minutes.

      Pour the butter mixture into the bowl of potatoes.  Add the salt, black pepper, and garlic, and beat until light and fluffy.  Add more half-and-half, one tablespoon at a time, if needed, until the desired creaminess is achieved.  Finally, add the cabbage and bacon, stir, and enjoy!

      As stated earlier, this is often referred to as Irish Mashed Potatoes and as such lends itself as a side dish.  But the addition of any good meat (pork chunks, lamb burger, beef stew meat, even chicken, or bacon) can be an easy, tasty casserole.  For this meal we added venison sausage  

Corned Beef Cabbage Soup

      If the Colcannon doesn't fill you up, this will.  This crockpot dish is made from my homemade Corned Beef I make every fall.  This is a 2-quart RV crockpot recipe.  Adjust accordingly.

2 tsp olive oil

2 leeks, chopped (whites and light green only)

2 cloves garlic

1 medium carrot, chopped

1/2 yellow pepper, chopped

1-pound lean corned beef brisket, sliced and chopped large

2 cups of water

1 bay leaf

1 Tbsp chopped parsley

1 large potato, peeled and cubed

1 cup cabbage, chopped

fresh pepper to taste

      In a skillet heat oil over medium low heat, add leeks and sauté until soft, about 4-5 minutes; add garlic and cook 2 minutes.  Transfer to the crockpot with the carrots, yellow pepper, corned beef, potatoes, pepper, bay leaf, parsley and water.

Chopped

In the pot, power on High 5 hours

      Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, 6-7 hours on low.  Arrange cabbage over corned beef, cover, now cooking on high until cabbage is tender, 45 minutes.

In the bowl, dig in

"May your pockets be heavy, and your heart be light.  May good luck pursue each morning and night"

Irish Blessing

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