Tuesday, February 28, 2023

7 Reasons Why Venison Should Not Be Gamey

 

      The most common reason you'll hear why people don't enjoy eating venison is that they say it tastes 'gamey'.   Although I have myself tasted this, it has not been a common experience for me.  I grew up with my mother cooking venison for dad the way he wanted it.......always either fried in bacon grease or wrapped in bacon.  Of course, this solves one issue, but creates another.  You can't enjoy the flavor profile that is there.  This is common to other wild game as well.  

      I am not criticizing those folks who subscribe to the 'gamey' theory, but I have found it doesn't have to be that way once I began to harvest my own deer and cooking it.  First of all, there are several common reasons the cut of meat maybe more or less flavored:  

Was the deer humanely and properly harvested?

Was the carcass skinned and cooled promptly?

What was the deer's normal diet? 

Other butchering and cooking techniques to consider:

Was it butchered into cuts favorable for venison? 

Was the location clean the butcher knowledgeable?  

Was the bone left in when possible? 

What temperature is the venison cooked to according to recipes?

       Let's start at the beginning.  When afield hunting deer and that one animal comes along you have been looking for, the base line fact remains:  I'm still excited, full of adrenaline.  This can sometimes affect the shot placement.  Through the 'wheelhouse' (the desired shot) just behind the front shoulder and halfway down will pass through the lungs and heart.  Shots 'off the mark' can pass through the gastrointestinal system puncturing the stomach, bowels, and elsewhere.  These shots result in intestinal fluids escaping into the cavity and affecting lots of tissue.  Keep in mind that this type of shot is not immediately fatal, and the animal will run much farther further stressing it and worsening the internal situation.  I have to admit I have done this and the resultant odor when gutting the deer will make you rethink your last meal.  The smell is unforgettable.  The gastrointestinal fluids will permeate the good meats and even with plenty of flushing and cleaning it may not be enough.  Much of the meat is ruined and will never be good table fair.  Even with good shot placement I end up trimming up a bit of rib meat year when butchering.  I hear so much about everyone's favorite proper caliber and bullet with which to kill deer, but the bottom line is simply you have to hit what you're aiming at.  

Sorry, but this picture is necessary, leaking intestinal fluids on meat

      The next issue is pretty straightforward.  Once down, the deer should be gutted as soon as possible and then transported to home or the butcher.  Opening the chest cavity is key.  Remove as much warmth as possible.  If the drive is long, pick up several bags of ice and put inside the cavity.  This is helping the carcass cool and remain fresh as possible.  It doesn't take bacteria very long to start some sort of growth.  When arriving at your destination skin the carcass as soon as possible to further promote cooling.  Aging the carcass can help with letting the natural enzymes tenderize the meat.  The length of aging is subjective according to outside temperatures (40F or less) and preference.  You can bag it while hanging with a good net cheesecloth mesh.  Nothing will ruin a good venison carcass like blow flies.  If the temps will not remain below about 45 degrees when aging then you will need to quarter and cool the meat by other means, such as a cold storage, fridge, or cooler with ice.  If you use a cooler, place the ice in with bags.  You don't want to submerge your meat in cold water as it will soften it and inhibit the natural enzymes from working properly.  


      What your game dines on daily is a very large part of its flavor.  I love Pronghorn Antelope, but their diet is mainly sage with some farm wheat on the side.  It makes a great pizza meat.  Mule deer are mostly a mountain prairie species, and their diet can be varied.  Their taste often comes down to preparation, Whitetail Deer is the most common species harvested and the most controversial.  Those harvested in mostly forest areas make their diet whatever is available which is anywhere from acorns to young, tender pine tree buds.  Those harvested in the lowland farm areas offer some of the finest eating available due to the agricultural diet they consume:  corn, barley, wheat, alfalfa, beans, etc.  Since our retirement and wintertime in South Central Texas we primarily hunt Axis Deer.  There are a good population of good whitetails here, but the Axis are considered exotic, having escaped from big game ranches.  There is no season or limit on them.  The best part about these is that they are primarily green veggie eaters, preferring grass and alfalfa with extremely lean meat. 


      Butchering is a matter of personal preference.  Most hunters have a favorite meat processor or butcher that they take their carcass.  Satisfaction here is a matter of experience.  Keep in mind that if you order sausage or burger your meat goes into a large hopper with many other hunters' meats to make large batches at once.  You don't necessarily get your own meat back.  
      For the past 30 years my wife and I have preferred to butcher our own.  Each year we try different cuts or add more equipment to our arsenal.  First, and most importantly is a set of sharp knives in various styles and sizes.  Don't skimp here.  We own the Outdoor Edge set of butchering knives, but also own several Wusthof Trident German Artisan blades, pairing/trimmers, a cleaver, and a good boning knife.  This last one is key.  Additionally, we purchased a professional meat slicer, grinder, and vacuum sealing unit (our 3rd one).





      Typically, we bone most of the meat, but there are several cuts we'll still butcher 'bone in' for the flavor.  

 

  

      With our deer here we bone out the front shoulder saving only a flatiron steak or two, then 'burger' the rest.  On the hind quarter we select the best of the round steak (some bone in) and perhaps a roast then 'burger' the rest.  Sometimes we save some of the shanks bone in for Osso Bucco.  We do save the heart which makes good steaks and the neck which makes a great stuffed roast.  

Burger, Sausage, or Brats

       Which brings us to the ribs.  Barb and I alternate years hunting here in South Texas and as such we agreed to butcher to our own preferences.  On years when she hunts, we bone out nearly everything for a few steaks, back straps, and burger here, but I like my 'bone in' meats.  I will use my 'saws all' and cut the rib end tips off for flank steak (flanken style) and then cut half rib cavity each side.  Half of each side goes to a prime rib rack and the rest to individually cut mini-tomahawk steaks.  Both of us like the inner sirloin straps (fish tenders) as well as the steaks that the hind quarters provide.  Any trim is once again, burger. This year I'm going to try some bratwurst, breakfast sausage, and chorizo out of a portion of the burger.   
      This is venison and not beef.  Don't expect it to taste like it.  The idea here is to augment the flavors, not disguise it.  Simply put, leaving the bone in when roasted adds so much flavor it is amazing.  Bacon can play a part here, but so can figs, cranberries, vegetables, potatoes, onions, garlic, and mushrooms.  Any good salt, pepper, garlic seasoning works well too.  Marinades, such as Allegro, Mrs. Dash, Worcestershire Sauce, and even Italian dressing work well.  Reverse sear is a technique I like to use with Axis, especially steaks. 

Axis Tomahawk Steaks & Prime Rib

Axis Osso Bucco

Axis Salisbury Steak

Crockpot Roast Axis 

      Of course, these recipes are all Axis Venison, but they were tried and true with whitetails first.  The biggest thing to consider when cooking venison is that the 'done' temps are much lower than beef.  160F for beef whereas whitetail venison is done at 145F and even less for Axis Venison at 130F.  Axis venison is less than 1% body fat, the least of any game animal.  This is evident when skinning.  It is all too easy to overcook.  You have to keep an eye on the thermometer and decide when to remove.  Add the meat either earlier or later as necessary.  Burger works well in casseroles such as Shepard's Pie.  Some of our other favorites include:  Venison Steak Ala Pizzaiola, Venison Burger Soup, Chicken Fried, Venison Zuppa Toscana, Venison Shank Barley Stew, and Prime Rib Rack with Fig Glaze.  It just takes planning for each recipe.  As far as Axis venison is concerned, the meat is delicious, the best we've ever had.  Here is but a single website to get you started, but there are so many more.  Venison Recipes | Wild Game Cuisine - NevadaFoodies

Venison Grilled Round Steak

       I have found venison to be as delicious a table fare as anything, it just needs consideration.  The old days of FRY IT ONLY is over.  You can easily enjoy this meat with just about any recipe you have with considerations for a meal worth enjoying.   I have been able to use any of my venison and many beef recipes in concert to produce many a delicious meal. Your meal won't taste gamey.  I promise you.  


"Why is the person who shoots a deer for venison subject to more criticism than the person who buys a ham at the supermarket. Overall, it is probably the intensively reared pig who has suffered more"


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Tuesday, February 21, 2023

The Evolving Face of Wildlife Management

 


     Hunting and fishing have long been necessary tools to manage big game and fish populations.  With the growing human population this has never been truer.   We are invading and negatively affecting their habitat more every year.  I have seen the changes over the years and the resultant effects have been mostly positive.   I won't go into great depth in any one area, but this blog chapter is both research based and from personal experience.  

      First of all, deer hunting.  It has long been accepted that deer hunting in the U.S is buck only, except in areas whereas the overall populations are growing too rapidly for their environment.  Most of the successful doe fertilization is from bucks 3 1/2 years and older, but young bucks of 1 1/2 to 2 years old collectively may sire 15-25% of all fawns.  In Wisconsin research showed that the average buck may breed 7-8 does each year before being depleted. 

      The research for average ratio of bucks vs does is much more complex.  Hunters, outdoor writers, and even biologists refer to 10:1 or 15:1 doe:buck ratios.  These cannot be pre-hunt ratios because as long as the current population is reproducing and recruiting fawns, the ratio cannot be more than a maximum of 5:1.  Even in the absence of doe harvest, a certain percentage of does die each year from various non-hunting factors. 


      Although the regulations regarding point restrictions are a successful way to allow bucks to breed successfully while young the lingering dogma about shooting only bucks troubles me.  If you've ever bow hunted whitetails you'll know just how smart a doe can be.  She is never any easier to harvest.  Which to me begs the question "Won't allowing the harvest of bucks and does equally keep the population more in balance rather than harvesting bucks only?"  If you feel that every doe harvested will also kill one fawn, then how many less fawns are produced with less bucks? 
      We have two properties that we hunt at both our homes in Michigan and Texas.  In Michigan this is solely whitetails, and the population has declined in our county during the past 20 years.  Although we're retired now and no longer hunt there, I would watch the property all year, even planting buckwheat and bean cover crops to attract them.  We saw the highs and lows.  In 12 years of hunting there I harvested 4 does in archery season.  I also took 1 spike and 2 very nice 8 pointers during gun season.  Some years I hunted elsewhere.  Does with fawns were always off limits and I never allowed others to hunt it.  Of course, the yearly replacing the NO HUNTING NO TRESSPASSING signs was never fun.  Even with retirement I have the local sheriff's office randomly patrol as we're no longer there during season.  It doesn't help much.  Downstate folks want venison and choose their self-decreed constitutional right to harvest.   Snowmobiling and trespassing comes shortly after and is worse.  In fact, when you aren't home in the winter, it is damn near an invitation.  


      Our winter property in Texas is much more dynamic.  We have 12 acres and a healthy population of both whitetail, axis deer, and the occasional wild hog.  These axis are escapees from local game ranches and the statewide population of these free range deer runs in the tens of thousands.  We have only hunted these 3 years now.  Since my first axis deer I am converted.  If you've ever eaten axis venison, you'd understand.  I have an agreement with one of my neighbors that I won't harvest any whitetails, which is pretty hard.  We have a nice herd and several very large bucks.  The axis herd varies year to year in population anywhere from 12-40 animals.  I do put apple corn and alfalfa out for them but choose to harvest a single animal each year.  The first year we had 4 very nice bucks, and I chose to harvest just one.  That year we had a 4:1 doe to buck ratio.  These deer do roam a bit and so they do get harvested by other neighbors and even trapped by locals selling them back to ranches.  Last year was Barb's turn and she chose a nice doe for the freezer.  This year we had about 18 axis with a couple of spikes and only 2 small bucks, which resulted in a 5:1 doe/buck ratio.  Hard to accurately access the effects on such a small herd.  Again, I chose a doe.  Of course, everyone wants a big buck, but the past 20 years we have become more meat hunters, simply enjoying the experience and the full freezer.   
 

      In order to satisfy the growing need for big game tags in various states, most have installed a 'point system'.  You get 1 point each year you apply but are not successful.  You can apply for 'points only' saving your right to draw till a point of your choosing.  Those applying with the most points each year usually successfully draw.  Variable population, more hunters......fairest way.  However, Wyoming has no points system for Mountain Goats.  It's just apply, wait, and hope.  I know folks that have waited for many years and are still waiting.  Several states also have 'bonus draws'.  In Montana they have the Super Tag which people pay to apply for and 1 is drawn each year for their choice in a particular species in whatever area they wish.  This raises many thousands of dollars each year for programs.  There is a similar program in Michigan called the Pure Michigan Hunt.  In Michigan I have 10 preference points for a black bear tag in the Upper Peninsula which I apply for each year.  I hope to draw this coming year. 


      For years the price of tags for the most coveted animals has risen exponentially.  Along with this goes the demand.  There have been guides for these tags all along, but their prices must rise as well.  In fact, most states have 'guide laws' which require them for nonresidents.  These guides provide transportation, lodging, processing, taxidermy, as well as expertise hunting, tracking in the local area.  Perhaps the bigger issue is credentials and availability.  Anybody with a computer can be a guide.  Prices can be very steep depending.  A 9-day Dall Sheep hunt in Alberta runs $24,500.  A 7-day elk hunt in Colorado runs 12,000.  Moose hunt in Alaska, $20,000.  These are guided prices, tags are extra when and if you draw one.  Of course, most states require licensing, but that doesn't stop the 'wanna be's'.  There are plenty of stories from folks that waited years to draw tags but did their own research online for a guide.  Many of these stories do not have happy endings.  Once you draw a lottery style tag, that's it.  Automatically back the end of the line.  In fact, some states allow only one tag in a lifetime for certain species.  I can only recommend that meticulous research must be done and references be provided to select a professional to guide you on the hunt of a lifetime.  This refers to hunts for Bighorn, Desert, Dall, and Stone Sheep as well as Moose, Mountain Goats, Caribou, Bears, and some premium elk areas.  Most antelope, elk, and deer areas are a lesser matter.  

The odds of drawing a Bighorn Sheep tag in Montana are about 2 %

      I have tried to 'paint' current conservation policies in a positive light.  These agencies have a difficult job trying to maintain wildlife populations, provide current, accurate research data, and oh yeah, satisfy all the sportsmen and women.  There is a tremendous amount of pressure in the western states when it comes to big game management, livestock considerations, and agencies that bind all of these folks.  Many of these states' Wildlife Departments are under strong scrutiny and pressure from farmers, ranchers, USDA, US Fish and Wildlife, and of course the guides.  So far, the wildlife is in the plus column, but the backslide is only just beginning. 

What used to happen every year

These 'chickens' are the norm now.  My wife's catch in 2014.

      We have been to Alaska twice since our retirement and loved fishing both times.  The amount of halibut fishing and limits have become increasingly tighter over time, especially in the Homer Alaska fishery.  The years of countless large halibut over 200 lbs. is over.  They realized that most of these were females and significantly reduced the overall population.  Currently the enormous fleet of charter vessel anglers may keep only 1 fish per day of any size and one fish that is NO MORE than 26 inches in length.  They also may not fish on Tuesday or Wednesday.  These rules are just for commercial or guided fishing.  The locals have different guidelines, which also can be incredibly unfair.   For example, the native fleet in St. Paul has to compete against the larger commercial boats that throw away more fish each year than the indigenous folks catch.  As such the entire charter and commercial industry lobbies this right back on the Alaska Department of Fish and Game.  There is a lot of pressure.  The area near Clam Gulch just north of Homer was once the home of some of the richest areas of razor clam beds in the world.  But free digging with limits of 60 clams per day has nearly decimated the population.  There has been no digging allowed for 8 years now.  Clams now come from the west side of Cook Inlet. 


The current crop of very undersized clams at Clam Gulch

      Down in the lower 48 it wasn't much different.  In Washington State in 1949 daily limits were lowered to 24 clams per day in order to curb the decimating population.  The diggers revolted.  Likely they had never paid much attention to the limits anyways, but the Department of Fisheries had finally begun to crack down.  Officers reported tourists stuffing clams in their waders, boots, or dumping their hauls into their cars before returning to dig again.  One digger was busted with 300 clams.  A commercial harvester on a boat dumped his haul overboard whenever enforcement came after him.  He was finally apprehended by seaplane with 500 clams.  I get home to dig once every couple of years and I have to say that although not as bad, the poaching climate hasn't changed much.  Barb and I have seen families bring down several 5-gallon buckets and when one was filled a member took it back to their vehicle while more were dug, usually by the same person.  Law enforcement is there patrolling, sometimes catching someone when they arrive at their vehicle, but hamstrung by a lack of personnel, thousands of diggers on a single beach, and believe it or not the occasional accusations of racial profiling.  They have to pick their battles. Current limits are 15 clams, which is plenty.  Barb and I will camp for a week digging over 200 clams for the freezer.  This is plenty for us till next trip.  The clams are still affected by occasional bouts with domoic acid which results from tide algae.  Not harmful to the clams, but toxic to humans.  Digging is not allowed when this happens.

      There is a never-ending supply of TV programs dedicated to the sports of hunting and fishing and several networks to supply it.  Most of these are commercial driven resulting in most programming aimed at promoting a certain product without much emphasis on the actual hunt.  Some are quite good, but most are just for entertainment value, rarely stating the actual costs of such an adventure.  Hard for the average person to appreciate the actual cost of these hunts as they are paid for by the program.  My favorite is 'The Meat Eater' with part of each show detailing the processing and preparation of the meat while in the field.  I find it remarkable that in most of the hunting programs very seldom does ANYONE EVER wear hunter orange.  In fact, they hardly ever mention safety.  
      Although I love to hog hunt, I really don't care for the programs featuring hunting hogs from helicopters with many slaughtered with semi-automatic weapons with far less than clean kills.   Although it is true that wild hogs are gaining in Texas, many of the ranches that offer $$$ hog hunting buy them from trappers on other private property.  In fact, I do not understand the increasing changeover from traditional hunting rifles to (very nearly) assault style weapons designed to kill not only quickly, but often.  In fact, on the ranch which I hunt they restrict magazines to 4 rounds only.  I am a staunch 2nd Amendment supporter and a 22 year USAF veteran, but do not understand the fascination with these types of weapons, especially in the current national climate.  Don't get me started with silencers or flash suppressors, not in the hunting environment.  I am bit of a purist when it comes to traditional firearms for hunting.   

Our next generation deer rifle?

      Unfortunately, over the years the pressure of maintaining quality television programming often tempts the producers to 'color outside the lines.'  There have been several personalities that have been heavily fined by wildlife officials for illegal practices, including outright poaching. 
      
Some subconscious desire to treat hunting like war? Where is the sport in this? 

      The science of wildlife management has been around for a long time.  Perhaps the near eradication of the American Bison, Bald Eagles, and American Alligators finally awoke us.  I salute the many professional biologists, conservationists, rangers, and wardens who dedicate their time and effort to this labor of love.  Of course, many folks also exercise their right of complaint when new rules or limits change their plans.  I have done my share of voicing a contrary opinion but try to keep in mind that lots of planning, including community forums usually precede any change in practice.  You can have it both ways, but only with conservation practiced by any and all people who will abide by the rules for future generations.  It has never been about us, just the critters and their well-being.  


"Go afield with a good attitude, with respect for the forest and fields in which you walk.  Immerse yourself in the outdoor experience.  It will cleanse your soul and make you a better person"

Fred Bear

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Wednesday, February 15, 2023

Thor's Hammer....the Ultimate Beef Crown

 



      I have been wanting to try this ever since I saw it online.  The perfect crown of beef; a shank with a large bone for a handle, roasted or smoked to perfection.  RED BLOODED MAN STYLE BBQ.  My work was indeed cut out for me as I searched all-over South-Central Texas for this cut, initially with no joy.  I did find some in Napierville, IL, but the shipping was insane.  I'm sure the demand will have an effect at some point.  

      Amazingly I happened to come across it after a local ad online by the local bar n grill, Gypsy Salley's was offering it that day as the Special Smoked Osso Bucco.  I called to confirm that was the cut of meat they were using, and the pit boss was kind enough to tell me where he found it, not far away at a local ranchers' meat market.  I was able to get ahold of this 'meat gold' for $5 a pound or $19 for the average cut.  They can be cut tall or short or anywhere in between.  Take your pick but watch your cooker height vs the bone.  


      Preparation and cooking for this are pretty straightforward.  Remove from packaging and pat it dry.  I brought mine home from the butcher and thawed it, aging in the refrigerator for 7 days before cooking.  There is no need to inject so I just rub it out first with a binder such as olive oil and then thoroughly sprinkle with KOSMOS SPG, but you can use any good beef rub, such as Hardcore Carnivore Black Beef, Meat Church Holy Cow or Holy Gospel, or KOSMOS Texas Beef or Cow Cover.  Use plenty, don't skimp here.  Any rub will work as long as it complements the meat without unnecessary spice or heat.  This is beef and meant to be served to taste like exactly that. 

Rubbed out and on the pit

      There is nothing like a good wood smoke pit so fire it up and get the temp stable at no higher than 225F.  I used lump hardwood charcoal to start and spiked it with split oak when needed.  Due to the height of the bone, you may have to place it on the pit sideways and rotate both laterally and medially occasionally.  My bone was 7" which fit into my pit at 7 1/8" nicely. Wrap the exposed bone handle in foil if you wish to prevent blackening, a personal choice. 

2 hours, start spritzing with beef broth

      Smoke the meat for 2-3 hours; every 45-60 minutes spritzing with beef broth.  I did discover, however that meat with the bone in takes longer to cook and it took nearly 5 hours to get this far. I learned, my bad. 

180 degrees F, time to wrap in foil

      When internal temp reaches 175-180F remove and wrap in aluminum foil.  Spritz heavily once more and return to smoker and cook till internal temp reaches 200-203F ideally.   Pull and leave wrapped to rest for an hour.  This allows the meat to finish any additional cooking and the juices to be reabsorbed.  

Wrapped and returned till 203F

Done, rested, ready to carve

      Place finished shank centered on large serving plate.  When served, offer large slicing knife and fork and surround the meat pedestal with Pico de Gallo, Guacamole, Fritos or, Corn o' cob, tortilla chips, beans, celery, carrots, whatever strikes your fancy.  You can simply slice the meat off the bone to serve or use twin hand shredders, your choice.  No marinade, no injection.....just good rub and the occasional spritz with beef broth.  As good as any brisket or burnt ends I've ever eaten.  

Sliced off the bone and served with redskin tater salad, guacamole, and chips


"Here in Texas BBQ is an obsession, and the only cure for it is to eat some more"

29,530,000 afficionados

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Wednesday, February 8, 2023

Guacamole via Molcajete, the best you'll ever have....

 

       I realized recently that most of my blog posts about recipes stems from my increased appreciation of SW Tex Mex culture.  This is not a bad thing and in fact it allows for some fusion ideas for multiple recipes.  Guacamole is a dish everyone has had at one time or another in Tex-Mex restaurants and taco shops.  It doesn't change much and yet some cultures try to enhance it via their own brand or tastes.  I have had many different variances, including FETA Guacamole which is good, but the original brand is the best.  Years ago, my daughter in law made such a delicious batch that I still use the recipe to this day.  Flavorful and creamy, Boy Howdy.  



      Recently I purchased a molcajete.  A volcanic stone version of the mortar and pestle, it is one of the most commonly used tools in any Mexican kitchen.  I got mine in a little Mexican grocery in San Antonio for $10.  After properly seasoning it is ready to go.

Seasoning:

      Soak the mortar and pestle in water and soak for 2 hours.  Remove and dry thoroughly.  Place a small amount of any of the spices and herbs you prefer to the bowl.  I used avocado, oregano, garlic, ancho chili powder, and salt.  Grind these into the bowl to mix thoroughly and cover the entire inner bowl, including the edge on top.  Set aside overnight.  This will season the bowl and leave flavors intact for future dishes, kind of like a cast iron skillet.  Another part of this process is to remove any loose grit that will surface with the first use.     Then just wash with hot water only, never soap, and dry.  This process will stain the bowl a bit, but that is normal.  


   Recently I used it when I made some Guac to go with wings.  My favorite recipe: 

3 avocados peeled and seeded

1 lime, juiced

1 tsp salt

1/2 cup diced onion

1 1/2 Tbsp. Cilantro

2 Roma tomatoes, diced

1 tsp minced garlic

1 pinch cayenne (optional)

      Here is the best part of the entire experience.  Simply place all the ingredients into the molcajete.  Using the large pestle first gently pound the mix down into the mortar bowl and then stir the mix around the bowl in several patterns to mix to the consistency you wish.  The weight of the pestle is much like the irresistible force and the immovable object.  Mash once or twice, stir once or twice......and done.  It makes the prep so very easy, much easier than a bowl and fork.  Barb likes hers with some chunk Cotija or Feta sprinkled on top.  Chips can be on the side, but also part of the decoration if you wish.  

Loaded ingredients

Grinding

This is the finest guacamole you'll ever eat

"I suppose there are people who can pass up free guacamole, but they're either allergic to avocado or too joyless to live"

Frank Bruni

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