Zion National Park

     

      As we stated last blog we decided not to tough out the COLD conditions at Bryce Canyon this trip.  We departed Moab and journeyed the first day to Salina, UT where we set up camp at the Butch Cassidy RV park for three nights.  Sometimes you just want to have hookups.  Barb needed some dependable WiFi cause it is bill paying time once again and there is always Wal Mart. 
     Zion NP is all about Towers and Temples, the essence of nature-carved sandstone thousands of feet tall.  It is located just NE of St. George, UT which is a beautiful city in it's own right. We may have just saved the best for last as this is the most popular park in Utah.  We traveled in from the northeast off of I-15 then through the small town of Springdale, UT. 

      This small, eclectic village is the cultural hub of the area capitalizing on all the beauty of the local desert and canyon area.  Any shopping and other supplies you may need are there, but again St. George isn't much further away for the bigger stores.  It should also be noted that there are two grocery stores in the village, but the "Happy Camper" which is right outside the park is much smaller and anywhere from 20-30% higher on their prices.  "Sol Foods" is located on the other side of the village and is a much larger store with better selections and prices.   

 

 

 

      Just as in Arches NP this time of year there are no reservations for campsites so we set up our base camp at Watchman CG just within the park.  These sites do have electric, but water is only available at spigots or at the dump station so we watered up before establishing camp.  We were here in December so only 1 of the 4 camping loops was open.   Sites run from $8-$20 per night.  We were in a beautiful site on right on the river so it was $20, but with our Senior Access Pass our total per night was only $10.  During the summer and peak times of the year you DEFINITELY NEED TO HAVE RESERVATIONS. There will be 4000-5000 vehicles a day in the park or nearby village and only 450 parking spaces.  The park does offer a shuttle service throughout the length.  IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT FROM NOVEMBER 30 TO MARCH 4 IS THE ONLY TIME VEHICLES MAY DRIVE ON THE ZION CANYON SCENIC HIGHWAY.  DURING THE SUMMER THE TOUR BUSSES MUST BE USED.  IN ADDITION WAIT TIMES TO GET INTO THE PARK DURING SUMMER PEAK TIMES CAN BE AS LONG AS 90 MINUTES. 

      Our first day we wandered through town picking up a few supplies and some firewood.  Barb, of course, had more detailed shopping in mind.  Due to the time of the year not many of the shops were open and the ones that were open were pretty expensive. 

      Day #2 we traveled east along the Canyon Switchback Highway towards Mount Carmel and the East Entrance to the park.  This route includes a 1.1 mile long tunnel that prohibits any type of commercial trucks, or vehicles (RV included) over 12' high or 50' long.  So if you're camping here come in from the South Gate.  This road begins an ascent pretty early and the switchbacks are tight.  There are plenty of pull offs to take pictures and no end to the panoramas provided.  Once past the top and out of the tunnel the terrain changes to a more sparce, desolate textured landscape rather than the sheer cliffs of the west side.  This area is evidence of many layers of sandstone and other sedimentary rocks from millions of years of erosion and Mother Nature's hand. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

      Day #3 found us traveling straight north along the main Zion Canyon Road.  This 12 miles is the heart of the park.  The entire canyon is carved north/south along the Virgin River which had a major role in it's development over the last thousand years.  The first part of the canyon is wider, but still as majestic. 





  

      The middle part of the canyon begins to narrow once you arrive at the Court of the Patriarchs.  As you travel north the walls get steeper, the access to the canyon other than the road is not to be seen. 

 

 

 







     The Zion Lodge is located in this stretch.  From here you will also notice the river turns from it's downstream silty brown to a blue shade.  Further upstream it becomes either a deep green in the pools to perfectly clear. 



 



 

      At the end of the road is the Temple of Sinawava and the River Walk Trail which runs 1.1 miles to it's termination at the beginning of the Narrows. This trail is paved and pretty much all level; an easy stroll.  From here on the journey is by foot only skirting the edges of the stream near the cliffs or just plain wading upstream.  It is accessible for another 3.4 miles.   We really wanted to journey further, but in December the stream is pretty much only about 40 degrees and the footing is treacherous, but many people do it, in the summer I would imagine.   

 

 

 



 

      We really enjoyed our stay in the park.  We ended up with two days off at the end so we spent a day in town doing some laundry and restocking groceries, and propane. We did get a 'wild hair' the last day so we took a drive, the subject of which is our next blog chapter. 

 

 

 



 



 

Arches National Park

 

North Window

       This has been one of our 'Bucket List' items ever since we began planning our retirement.  The vast open spaces and beauty of Southern Utah can only be believed by visiting.  Arches, slot canyons, stacks, and hoodoos.  These are some of the terms we would come to know.  The best possible online resource for any of the parks in Southern Utah is  http://www.visitutah.com/places-to-go/most-visited-parks 



      Arches NP is 269 miles SE from Odgen near the town of Moab, a full days drive via Interstate 15 and US 6.   I do have to say that Utah has some of the finest highways I have seen cross country.  US 6 is no exception.  This time of year all of the campgrounds in Utah's National Parks are first come first serve and as such we set up camp in Devils Garden CG. 

 

 

       This is the only campground in Arches NP and is 18 miles from the entrance.  The park itself is beautiful, but there are several things worth mentioning for campers.  First, the campsites are pretty small, no matter what their website says.  We tried several on for size unsuccessfully before finding one that we could into.  Of course, our RV is 34', but any RV 30' and larger may be a bit challenged.  Second, be prepared to haul water in your RV.  There is no water spigot available except for the one on the shallow sink in front of the bathrooms for washing dishes.  We ran the travel relay with two 6 gallons jugs back and forth for several days and alternating our shower days to make it work.  The campground itself is nestled at the top of a high summit with spectacular views around.   Pets are permitted within the campground, but NOT allowed on the trails.  The camp host is very friendly and helpful, he brings $5 bundles of firewood around each evening for anyone who wants them.  Cost per day for this campground is $25, $12.50 if you have the Golden Access or Interagency Pass.  RV parks in nearby Moab are much higher. 

      There are nearly 2000 arches within the park. We visited all those we could either drive to or hike a reasonable distance.  We took nearly several hundred pictures.  The ecology and science of what transpired to result in this environment staggers the imagination.  I would recommend the Visitor

Center Tour.  There isn't much else I can say except to enjoy just a few of these photos of some spectacular scenery. 

Balanced Rock



Hoodoos & Arches

North Window Arch

The Three Gossips 

Double Arch 

Landscape Arch

 

Delicate Arch

      Since retirement we cherish our holidays more than ever and this Thanksgiving was no exception.  We AusSpit our Cook's Ham over the fire pit with some Baked Sweet Potatoes, Steamed Asparagus, and Pecan Pie for desert!  We tried a new glaze on the ham today:  Boar's Head Brown Sugar & Spice.  It is delicious!

 

                



      We spent 6 wonderful days exploring Arches NP and although we didn't see everything we enjoyed mild weather, ate well, and had a blast.  Always good to reaffirm your faith in Mother Nature.  There is something here for everyone.  Hiking, mountain biking, off road adventures, and of course the most beautiful scenery you can imagine.  The nearby town of Moab is only 5 miles south and has everything you will need except a Wal Mart.  There are hotels, RV parks, restaurants, fast food joints, every adventure tour and rental imaginable, decent prices on gas, grocery stores, propane, and several places to do laundry.  We wholeheartedly recommend this park to anyone; your adventure awaits. 

NOTE:  We had 2" of fresh snow the night before our departure from Arches NP.  It was really pretty and provided a peaceful feel to the area.  Mother Nature does have a habit of having things all her own way sometimes.  We have been keeping an eye on the weather at Bryce Canyon NP this week.  Unfortunately the canyon sits at 8000'-9000' and they have a reputation for some pretty heavy snowfall.  It is known as a Mecca for Nordic Skiing and Snowshoeing in the winter.  This latest storm not only provided them with lots of new snowfall, the forecast temps for the coming week were for only in the lower 20s for highs and down to the single digits at night including some forecast nights below zero!  We really have no desire to tough out such brutally cold weather especially at night in the RV....we decided to forego our stop at Bryce Canyon this trip and will catch it perhaps next trip in the spring or summer.  We will now move on to Zion NP and the St. George area next. 

 

 

 

 

The Road to Utah



       Leaving Tumwater, WA we headed south to the Columbia River Gorge then east along it's length to the town of Pendleton, Oregon.  This was to be Stop #1 for us enroute to Utah.  It was an easy drive, but the gas mileage suffered a bit as the drive through this area is often home to some winds as well.  We spent our time hooked up in Pendleton at the Wildhorse Casino Resort



www.wildhorseresort.com where full hookups with Good Sam discount came to a decent $26/night.  They have great bathrooms, showers, laundry facilities, and of course the casino offers a free shuttle, but we did not avail ourselves of this feature this trip.  We had only planned on staying a single night, but with the arrival of gusty winds up to 60 mph and plenty of snow on the coming mountain pass we thought better of staying an extra night.  Who's in a hurry?  I was quite pleased to find the price of diesel at a 'trip low' of $2.21 which was a welcome sight. 



      Pendleton is the home to the world famous Pendleton Round Up, one of the top 10 rodeos in the country held each year the 2nd full week in September.  It is also the home to the world famous Pendleton Woolen Mills, makers of the finest virgin wool materials known.  We did tour the mill and then of course hit the Mill and Outlet Store.



      Prices here can easily shock the average person into defibrillation.  The average men's and women's sweaters here can run in the neighborhood of $200 and a wool blanket upwards of nearly $300!  Barb was fortunate enough to find a very nice quilt for our RV bed that was actually pretty reasonably priced.   She got a nice discount cause it was on sale, a senior's discount, and another discount cause her husband is so damned charming and good looking.  Most of this is true. 

 



      Leaving Pendleton we headed over Deadman's Pass and along the eastern edge of Oregon crossing into Idaho west of Boise.  The pass just east of Pendleton is especially treacherous due to double hairpin turns and a steep downgrade.  Weather can add extra challenges.  We waited the extra day in Pendleton just because of the snow and wind on this road.  http://www.dangerousroads.org/north-america/usa/4792-deadman-pass.html 

      We arrived in the town of Jerome, ID our next night and had planned to stay at the Fairgrounds, but this was not to be.  The campground is advertised as being open year around, but we found it empty with power/water shut off, presumably for the winter.  We were able to water up at a local truck stop and then found a nice, quiet corner of the local WalMart to settle down for the night. 



      Our next stop was in Odgen, UT to visit another old high school friend, Chuck Frady.   We hadn't seen other in 44 years, but we decided we were both still as handsome as ever!  He is still the same laid back, friendly, golf nut I remember from 'way back when'.  Chuck also spent 20 years in the Air Force and is finishing up another career at Hill AFB, UT as a Airfield Heavy Equipment Supervisor.  We did tour his shop and I found the airfield snowplow equipment to be pretty damned impressive.......definitely a MAN SHOP!  He and his wife Nettie were wonderful hosts and they love the area.  Nettie was incredibly helpful as she guided us around the general Odgen area and Hill AFB so we could get restocked, mail packages, and pick up prescriptions before heading further south.  We found Ogden to be a beautiful city with so much to offer.  We had a very nice visit.  There is a 3 lane FREE RV dump station on the north side of the Clinton City Maintenance Bldg just off 1750 West behind the Wal Mart.  Easy in and easy out to get back out the Interstate from here. 

 

      Next up for us is Southern Utah which has a wealth of incredible and national parks.  It would probably take the better part of 2 months to visit them all.  We will spend the next several weeks, including our Thanksgiving visiting Arches, Bryce Canyon, and Zion National Parks. 

The Essence of Cuisine in the Pacific Northwest

     

Photo courtesy of McGrath's Fish House



      Perhaps the best part about visiting the area where I grew up is the abundance of seafood available.  From a myriad of freshwater fishing to the cornucopia of delectable from the ocean:  salmon, oysters, prawns, crab, cod, rockfish, and halibut to name a few.   Of course it all depends on when I visit as to what I can expect to enjoy.  Barb and I do try and harvest our own when we are here; it's just the best part of the experience. 



      The past several visits have centered on razor clams as the seasons have been generous and the clams readily available.   Clam digging is a matter of going out at a very low tide, locating 'shows' or holes where the clams are and digging them.  They live about 18" deep and each digger is allowed 15 per day.  The 3 day non-resident license is only $6.  They provide a delicious treat when fried. 

 

 



      This fall, however, the level of domoic acid is too high to allow safe, edible harvest of clams.  Domoic acid began showing up in Pacific tides about 20 years ago with the arrival of algae in warmer seasons.  Consumption of clams during these times can be dangerous, if not fatal.  Complete cancellation of clam seasons has happened 3 times since then.  Better luck next time for us. 
      This visit we spent our usual 5 day visit camping at the beach, but without a clam season and salmon fishing closing 2 months early we were left with recreational Dungeness Crab Fishing.  Everyone raves about Alaskan King Crab and I have enjoyed this myself, but I prefer Dungeness Crab which is sweeter in taste and an entire crab costs only about $7/lb (+-) right off the boats.  These are harvested from Southern Alaska south to California.   Commercial fishermen use crab pots in deeper water to harvest these tasty treats, but recreational fishermen have to resort to other methods. 



      There are collapsible traps and other gadgets, but I tried my luck with small bait snares attached to the end of a fishing line on a strong pole.  These work the same way:  fill the small cage with a dead, smelly bait, such as chicken livers or cut herring.  The attached snares are of heavy diameter fishing line and will ensnare the claws and legs of the unsuspecting crab.  Feel the tug.....reel them up slowly.  I set up my poles within the harbor marina of Westport off of Float #20 which is open to the public.  Many legal crab are taken here every year as they are drawn to the calmer harbor waters with the abundance of food discarded from fishing vessels.   Barb spent much of her time this trip frolicking the beach with our 5 1/2 month old pup, Roux, but I spent several hours each day at high tide waiting patiently on the docks.  Although I did catch several small crab, I did not out smart or harvest anything legal. 

       The nice thing about this area is even if you do not harvest your own crab, buying them fresh off the boats is a fairly inexpensive deal.  We bought two freshly cooked on Thursday and enjoyed a fresh cracked crab/corn on the cob feast in our RV.  Cooking crabs is simply a matter of boiling them in water for 18-20 minutes and then immediately submersing them in cold water.  They can then be eaten at your leisure.   This privilege at the docks cost $1 more, but worth it as we don't have to worry about keeping them alive till we get home and then setting up for cooking ourselves.  We did arrange to get 4 more fresh cooked crab from the docks our last morning there to take home for Barb, Mom, her friend Rose, and I to enjoy.  Crack the crab, dig out the meat, dip in melted butter and savor....usually with corn on the cob.  Always a feast to be treasured. 

     This trip we definitely ventured outside the comfort envelope.  I had tried to enlighten my wife (and others) over the years as to exactly to the realm and deliciousness of the Geoduck.  This creature is another relative of salt water clams except they grow to much larger sizes.  The average mature clam is right at 2 pounds with many more growing LARGER. 

 Photo courtesy of Taylor Seafoods   

      Many of these are harvested annually through a much more exhausting method which require digging holes at or deeper than 3 feet deep.  Some folks equate this to wrestling with a horse stuck in the mud. 

Photo courtesy of Taylor Seafoods



      We decided to obtain ours from a local fisheries business www.taylorshellfishfarms.com These are more expensive, but yield much more meat than the average razor clam.  They are primarily used, and are delicious in, fritters and chowder.  This treat will cost you $30/lb. and the average clam is 2 pounds.  After returning home with our fresh 'CLAM' (ours was about 1.5 pounds) we set about the cleaning process: 

 

1)  First you boil water.  Then place the geoduck into the boiling water for ONLY about 20 seconds.  The purpose here is to quickly blanch (not totally cook) the clam. 

 



 

 

2)  Then you immediately put the geoduck into COLD ICE WATER to stop the cooking process for about a minute.

 

3)  Third place the geoduck on a hard surface for prep.   After cooking the neck will usually relax and become quite elongated.  You will have to trim the siphon end snout and then remove the dark layer of skin that surrounds the long neck (siphon).  This will leave you with the more tender neck meat beneath. 

 

 

4) Next, place the geoduck on a cutting board and using a sharp knife gently pry the shell away from the meat to separate it.  Then remove the internal organs (just at the base of the neck) by hand.  They will come out easily leaving a thick layer of breast meat behind.  Then using your knife separate and trim the breast meat, siphon, and neck. 

5) Finally, select and cut the meat as desired for whatever you plan to prepare.  We chopped ours for a delicious clam chowder meal later this winter. 







 

      There is such a variety of delicious seafood here in the Pacific NW.  We try and return to our favorites and branch out and try something new when the opportunity presents itself.  We will depart within the next couple of days for the SE enroute through Oregon, Idaho, and into Utah for another friend reunion and then some Rich Barb time in the beautiful canyon country of Southern Utah.  

 





Patty's Place

     



      One of the days we were at Mom's we decided to make a day trip to Mount St. Helens.  It is only about 2 hours SE and makes a nice drive.  It was foggy early, but the skies burned off enough to catch some good views of the mountain (or at least what's left of it).  I get a bit sad visiting as I like to remember the mountain as it was when I was a kid playing around, camping, or fishing in the vicinity.  The devastation left by the eruption (now 35 years ago) is still evident and gives you reason to respect Mother Nature. 

 

      On the way home we decided to stop at this quaint little place we saw earlier.  Patty's Place is located at mile marker 19 on Mount St. Helens Highway (WA 504).  There are several large signs out front advertising their famous Elk Burger, Chicken & Dumplings, and Assorted Cobblers. The inside is rustically decorated. 

 

 

 

      Barb and I had our hearts set on a big, juicy Elk Burger, but after ordering several locals came in and ordered the Chicken & Dumplings.  Out of curiosity I turned and asked if it was as good as advertised and they said it is the best item on the menu and they had been eating there for years.  HINT #1:  ALWAYS LISTEN TO THE LOCALS.   The burgers came out looking quite tasty piled with meat, lettuce, onion, and pickles, but were at best......average.  The meat patty was very thick and at least a quarter pound of healthy elk, but there wasn't much taste.  It could have used more seasoning.  The fries were quite good as they were beer battered and done just right. 

 

      I left enough room so that I could sample the cobbler.  I'm a sucker for fresh baked goods.  There are 7 different flavors of cobbler and I selected the Wild Mountain Berry w/o ice cream.  The cobbler was warm and tasty, the wild blackberries, marionberries, and huckleberries delicious as well.  I think the crust could have used a bit more sugar as to 'crunch it up' a bit.  Overall it was a very good cobbler. 

 

 

      Patty's Place has a nice feel to it, especially after touring the Cascade Mountains for a couple of hours.  I would skip the Elk Burger next time, but am definitely already thinking about those Chicken & Dumplings!  







 









Yakima River Canyon Boondocking

      We arrived in Central Washington planning on relaxing a day or two and do some fruit/vegetable shopping at the myriad of local stands. We checked out a new boondocking location up the Yakima River Canyon, about 8 miles north of Yakima.  We first watered up at Exit 22 where Washington State has one of many rest areas with RV dumps and water fill.  Afterwards we exited at Washington Highway 821, just north of Selah, heading up the canyon.  The road is tight, high, and winds throughout the mountain ledges for about 5 miles to the first area. 



      There are 4 areas to camp during the length of this canyon.  These are all on BLM land.  We chose the first, Roza Recreation Area due to it's closeness to town.  This is a simple, but spacious setup with the entire parking area freshly paved with lines to delineate camping or parking areas.  There are 6 sites, each with a fire pit and picnic table and there are two very nice vault toilets.  There is no water, electricity, or cost. The sites do require some leveling on your part. 

 

      The next day we took a short drive further up the canyon to check out the other sites.  About 2 miles further up was the Big Pines Recreation Area.  This is the same type of area, but with 38 sites, many of which sit back into the large Ponderosa Pines with shade and proximity to the river.  There are also tent sites and walk in sites for those more adventurous.  Still no electricity or water, but no cost as well.  I do say that we would probably stay here next time and by the amount of campers already there I believe they share the same sentiment.  There is no cell signal within the entire length of the canyon.  One of the other recreation areas was smaller such as ours and the last was the most upriver and accessible only by river.  All the areas have access to plenty of sun which made our solar setup just the ticket. 



      The entire canyon is very scenic with plenty of wildlife, including a herd of Bighorn Sheep which reside on the western walls.  There are many opportunities for swimming, canoeing, kayaking, fishing, hiking, and mountain biking.  We had plenty of fun visiting markets, picking up some fresh corn, peaches, apples, and Barb even found some of her favorite Choke Cherry Honey.  This place stays on our list for each time we pass through. 

Weighing Anchor 2015

 

 

“You can find your way across this country using burger joints the way a navigator uses stars.”

                                              ―Charles Kuralt

      We had a fairly challenging summer at home, what with the myriad of insurance, home maintenance, lawn tractor, and RV replacement issues confronting us.  We did depart as planned, however, and begin to pursue our next chapter. 

      The first leg of our journey takes us west this fall.  Departing Kalkaska we made stops in:

Ironwood, MI, We had planned on boondocking at the WalMart, but it was laden with construction so we stayed overnight at the village campground.  www.ironwoodchamber.org/ironwood_mi_camping.html  Full hookups for a reasonable $20/night

Fargo, ND  www.redrivervalleyfair.com/campground  Newly renovated campground full hookups $30/night.

Fallon Bridge, MT (boondocking/free) before setting up camp once again at Ruby Reservoir near Virginia City, MT.  Got a few Montana Moss Agates here....

      I did weigh our rig at a truckstop in Superior, WI.  Total trailer weight came to 7840, which is still 160 pounds below max with current tires.  I was carrying 1/3 tank of fresh water.  Cheapest diesel was at Christmas, MI $2.35.  We averaged 14.2 mpg during this leg.  Gas mileage can be quite the variable these days as I have discovered that keeping the fresh, grey, and black water tanks empty until just before arrival at a destination significantly improves mileage. 

      We camped at Ruby Reservoir back in April for 5 days.  The reservoir has been drawn down throughout the summer as the water source for many hay farmers throughout the Ruby Valley.  This time of year it exposes many more acres of terraced shoreline which in turn reveals increased opportunities to prospect for Garnets or their larger, purer cousins, the Ruby.  There is a free campground located on the NE side of the reservoir that contains a nice improved vault type toilet setup and camping is pick and choose wherever you like to boondock right on the shores of the lake.  The campground is located 8 miles south of Alder, MT where you can find any and all the supplies (water, groceries, gas, propane, firewood, bar, cell service, etc.) you might need. 

      As I was always the first out of bed with Roux in the morning.  I made it a habit to enjoy my coffee with some spectacular Rocky Mountain sunrises.  I love SW Montana! 

        Barb graduated to the role of experienced prospector finding Garnets of all sizes this trip.  In fact, she found about 3 ounces, including about 2 dozen gem quality stones that she can have faceted. 



       I took my own path to relaxation this visit as I gathered my camera gear and traveled the 20 miles further up the road to the end near Cottonwood Campground/Trailhead.  This is just west of Yellowstone NP and very close to the Idaho border as well as the Continental Divide in some of the most rugged country in the state.  This upper area of the Ruby Valley hosts some of the finest elk hunting in all of Montana.  I enjoyed looking at the scenery and the ranches for sale (none of which I could ever afford).  The birches and aspens are nearly at peak color along the Ruby River and I stopped several times to enjoy the beauty of fall, my favorite time of the year. 

 

      We stayed at Ruby for 5 days.  Heading west we boondocked at Lincoln's 50,000 Silver Dollar Bar & Casino in Haugan, MT for a night, where there is free camping with water/electric.  www.50000silverdollar.com This is one of our regular stops.  From here we traveled on to Hayden, ID to visit my favorite Aunt Lillian.  

      One of the finer things that should be enjoyed by anyone growing older is visiting those folks that made an impact on our lives as we grew up.  My Aunt Lillian is one of those people.   During my typically traumatic teenage years she and her husband Bob were people who I could talk to even when no else helped.  Lillian is in her 90s now...her husband, Bob, passed on about 13 years back.  Aunt Lillian remains as one of those folks that is a force in my life.  

       We head further west now, to sample the delicious fall fruits & vegetables available in Central Washington before we arrive at Mom's.   We look forward to trying out a new boondocking site along the Yakima River near Yakima.   Paved spots with picnic tables and vault toilets; price.....free.  http://www.blm.gov/or/resources/recreation/site_info.php?siteid=261

Plenty of sun in that Yakima Valley to power our journey.