Feliz Navidad de Leakey

 

      We spend our first Christmas at our new place in Texas.  The temps are of course warmer and there will be no snow, but the holiday spirit remains.  This holiday is a bit more diverse than what we have known.  Christmas Eve within itself occupies just as much customs and traditions as the next morning and we were anxious to experience both.  This area with the diverse blending of Latino, White, and Texas cultures is rich with traditions and experiences that we have never seen.  We are excited to embrace them all. 

      Christmas Eve is a celebration equally important as the next morning.  Close families gather for large meals consisting of many different type of tamales, sides of beans/chiles, tortillas, cheese, beef, Pico de Gallo, and Queso.  So we jumped into the deep end.  The beans and Hatch Green Chile Dip were delicious, but my tamales still need a bit of work.  So hard to warm back up.  

Charro Beans

Pico de Gallo & Hatch Green Queso Dips

Chicken Poblano Tamales w/Oaxaca Cheese

      Christmas Day is the same world wide.  Large family gatherings and a mountain of food are on the near horizon.  We have traditionally done a crockpot ham the past 7 years since retirement.  Simple and delicious.  This year we will use a Dearborn Ham.  We tried this two years ago during our winter exile in Monroe, MI and it was very tasty.  We accompany it with praline glazed sweet taters, our farm sweet corn, deviled eggs, and Apple or Pecan Pie ala mode.

Crockpot Dearborn Ham

Sweet Taters w/Praline Top & Cream Sweet Corn

Deviled Eggs, Rolls, Pies, and Ice Cream

      We do not normally exchange presents at this point in our lives.  We usually buy what we want or need when we want it anyways.  We figure that the life we live is in itself a gift of enormous value.  I can't speak for Barb, but I am grateful for the best friend and lover I could possibly have in my life as well as a retirement that we could only dream of, let alone experience.  Life is a gift, enjoy it.  Merry Christmas to you all.   

   "Obviously people in Texas have big hearts"

Katie Couric

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Rome Wasn't Built In A Day.......Ranch Projects Update

 

      So by now we've become knee deep after the investigative process and begun the list of what needs fixed and/or improved.  What we know so far:  the well is kaput, but we are hooked up to city water and running fine.  There is a small cabin size hot water heater in the main cabin so there is hot water for showers, etc.  We are going to have another small water heater installed next to the sink in the cookshack for on demand use.. 

      Barb did a beautiful job staining the deck connecting the two cabins.  She has further outfitted the cabin with some floor area rugs, a new heater and bedding.  There is also now a TV with DVD player.  She has further plans to paint the cabin blue, but that is still in serious negotiations (not happening). 

      The cook shack has all the necessary utensils, pots, pans, hot plate, microwave, toaster oven, Mr. Coffee, space heater, and a small refrigerator/freezer.  I also brought down a very good John Boos Cutting Block and several very good knives for smoking, butchering, etc.  Barb did discover today that there are no plates or silverware as of yet.  We have begun to stock the cook shack cupboards with extra canned goods, staples, paper towels, etc.  We also store some of our perishables in that fridge as well.  We are investigating several different type of solar lighting to keep the cabins, deck, and flag pole illuminated even when we're not here.  

      I have set up a nice fire pit area with plenty of stacked, seasoned oak as well as an adjustable fire pit grill and an AusSpit https://auspit.com  This is a battery powered rotisserie setup that will handle 20 pounds of meat and operates on 2 D Cell batteries for up to 90 hours.  I've had it for 8 years now; works wonderfully.  There is also a propane shore cooker set up for deep frying anything and everything.  To date we've done clams, shrimp, and fish beautifully.  We have two benches as well as two Adirondack chairs under the live oak trees at the pit.   For now this area also serves as our pallet storage and corn/alfalfa storage bins.  In the next couple of weeks the new wood pit should arrive and the outdoor cooking area will be complete.  Briskets, ribs, sausages, chops, chicken, and pork belly, oh my!

Texas Longhorn Smokers TL-96

            The fencing project finally completed with the entire front of our property fenced with welded pipe, t-posts and field fencing as well as a new lockable gate installed.  It is just a presence.  We had the fence run to the inside of both the telephone junction box and the water meter for the utility folks.  The electric has a 'smart meter' so it is read telemetrically online.  

There was plenty of brush and small trees to remove before sinking pipe and t-poles

Voile' the finished fence and gates

      Which brings us to this year's coup de grace.  We do have septic, but it has one central tank and a single hookup (50 feet away) from the RV.  It is not run to the cabin.  The cabin has a compostable toilet.  Ecologically sound, but not convenient.  This entails us dumping the RV black tank into our 40 gallon portable Rhino Boy and towing over to the tank inlet to dump.  This happens once each two weeks.  In fact as I type this the tank is nearly full and needs pumped.  There is a bright light on the horizon as the City of Leakey informed us there is a federal grant to provide free access for rural areas.  So, we're on the list and should be hooked up to city sewage by the time of our departure next spring. 

     Little by little it's happening.  Some projects were our choice and some were unexpected and surprisingly accomplished with little or no cost to us.  It does hamper our ability to host guests this trip, but by next year we'll be nearly Air BnB ready....lol.  You're still welcome to visit this winter, we'll just arrange for a 'porta-potty'.   By the end of this month we should be in a place to just relax and enjoy good food, good neighbors, a couple of day trips, and good health.  Joie de Vivre, my friends. 

 

"Happy are those who dream dreams and are ready to pay the price to make them come true"  

Leon J. Suenes

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Mama Chole's Leakey, TX

 

      When we arrived here and began to look around the town for this and that, it didn't take long to figure out that Mama Chole's was the most popular hometown Mexican eatery.  We stopped in several times to visit with our realtor and each time restaurant next door was full.       

Cook it and they will come, especially in the summer

      There is a surprisingly good size dining area, but there is also a large outdoor covered picnic area that is popular with the lunch crowd.  Take out is also offered.  The menu is pretty simple and straightforward, but lacking nothing.  I've heard the wait can at times be long, but the food is worth it.  YELP rated this restaurant 4.5 out of 5 stars.  Trip Advisor reviews it as "Our go to Tex Mex in Leakey" 

      

http://places.singleplatform.com/mama-choles/menu?ref=google

      Barb and I checked in during the dinner crowd even though later in the week.  Like I said, dinner CROWD.  Apparently in the summer after a day cooling off in the Rio Frio, the line can be out the door here.  We got a bit luckier in December.  We chose to sit outside on such a beautiful evening.  The menu is of average size for offerings, both appetizers and entrees.  

      Barb is not very adventurous when it comes to Mexican food but she did stretch herself a bit this evening and decided on the Care Quisada while I chose the Mama Chole's Plate.  Both came with beans, rice, warm homemade tortillas, and salad as well as Carne.  We got the traditional appetizers of homemade tortilla chips and Pico and I got some extra Guacamole.  

Delicious chunky Guacamole

Carne Guisada

Mama Chole's Plate

      The food came hot and ready.  You get plenty of food.  The service was excellent with two different waitresses checking on us every couple of minutes.  Barb loved her entire meal and even liked the bit of Guacamole she had.  She thought the Carne was a bit spicy, but not bad.  She cleaned her plate.  I loved the Guacamole, very chunky and tasty.  The Pico was very good as well, just the right amount of spice.  I thoroughly enjoyed my enchilada, taco, and chalupa.  We both love the beans as well.  The meal was well worth it.  Our meal totaled $26.  We certainly tipped the waitresses.   On a scale of 1 to 5 we rated this place a ....

"I've seen zero evidence of any nation on Earth other than Mexico having even the slightest clue to what Mexican food is about or even come close to reproducing it.  It is perhaps the most misunderstood country and cuisine on Earth"

Anthony Bourdain 

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Cooper's Old Time BBQ Junction, TX

 

      The first of our new winter haven reviews.  I have eaten at Coopers Old Time BBQ several times before both in Llano and New Braunfels and can easily give it my highest recommendation.  Now that we winter so close to the one just north of us in Junction I decided to give this chain the whole gambit.  coopersbbqjunction.com Upon arrival we did discover this is not part of the original Coopers Old Time BBQ restaurants.  We decided to give it a try nonetheless.  

      We chose to visit this on a Saturday after a road trip to Lowe's and Harbor Freight in Kerrville and then a short drive NW for a good Sunday dinner.  Advertising true Texas style BBQ, they are open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. 7 days a week.  There is a selection of dining from indoor to outdoor to take out.  Always versatile with the COVID situation.  

      

      As is the normal with Texas BBQ they offer all meat prices per pound.....brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, pork sausage, half chicken, and turkey breasts.  You can order meat by the pound, as well as plates and sandwiches. The plate meals offer meats and sides as well as combo plates 2 meats, and super combo plates 3 meats as well as sides.  Sides include potato salad, chips, beans, and coleslaw.  Of course bread, pickles, onions, and jalapeno peppers are offered as sides.  Deserts include either peach or blackberry cobbler.  

      We arrived mid afternoon Saturday to a nearly full restaurant.  We were served immediately.  The  venue is cafeteria style and then seat yourself either inside or out.  There is no tipping.  I was not offered my choice of type and cut of brisket which is common in TX BBQ.  As it was cool outside we chose indoors well outside of the 6' interval.  Barb ordered the Sausage Plate dinner with Potato Salad and Pinto Beans, while I chose the 2 meat dinner with Brisket and Jalapeno Cheese Sausage and the same sides.  You also get white bread, onions and dill chips.  

      The portions are decent size.  We found the food to be a bit bland although I did enjoy my Pinto Beans.  The brisket was moist, tender and easy to tear with your fingers,  Although the sausage was tasty, it was a bit soft and lacked the desired crispy SNAP when you bit into it.  We both enjoyed the Potato Salad.  The BBQ sauce was our biggest area of concern as it was watery and very tomato based with no spice.  You can see the thinness in the picture above.  I have to admit we were a bit disappointed, probably considering we were expecting the same quality we had come to expect in the "Cooper Old Time BBQ" chain, Texas Style.  Like I said previously this place is not associated with them.  Total price for our meal was pretty standard, $38 for two meals.  On a scale of 1-5 stars I give this one a......

"I'm a foodie.  I enjoy it a lot, and contrary to what it looks like, I eat a lot.  My comfort food, of all things, would be southern soul BBQ"

Zach Johnson

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A Rio Frio Thanksgiving

 

      Our first Thanksgiving in our new winter home.  We always plan on a good spread within reason.  By this I mean there are only two of us.  I do love to cook, but we plan on a feast within our scale.  The weather is still warmer than what we're used to, but the holiday spirit remains.  Leakey has several markets, holiday festivals, and of course the lighting of downtown. Small town America still lives.  

Town Square County Bldg.  Leakey, TX 

Leakey Thanksgiving Marketplace

Lighting of the Town Square Thanksgiving Eve

      We did not go with the usual small turkey this year, but a Butterball Turkey Roast with both white and dark meat, about 3.5 pounds.  I had planned to roast this via Aus Spit over the fire pit, but the roast comes wrapped with butcher's twine and I didn't want to risk that over an open fire, so turkey in the oven.  We also enjoyed our own garden kernel corn, green bean casserole, cranberries, Barb's Family Heirloom stuffing, turkey gravy, deviled eggs, rolls, and choice of German chocolate or carrot cake.  We were able to find most of what we needed right here in Leakey, needing only 1 trip to the big city of Uvalde to complete our list.  Unfortunately 5 days before Thanksgiving the local market closed down for 2 weeks due to COVID.  There is another much smaller store so it looks like we're driving one town over for a bit.  No loss for this holiday season.  

Ready for the oven

Done at 170 internal temp

The Spread

Choice of German Chocolate or Carrot Cake

      Barb and I give thanks this year for everything we are fortunate enough to love, experience, or enjoy.  Our retirement years and travels have in itself been a blessing.  We are also so very grateful for you as our friends.  We hope that all of you enjoy your blessings as well.   Family is everything and although we are not able to share this holiday with ours, we hope you are.  Happy Thanksgiving everyone.  May the peace of God be with you.   

"I am grateful for what I am and have.  My thanksgiving is perpetual"

Henry David Thoreau 

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Axis Deer, Wild Pigs, & Ball Moss

 

      One of the draws of our purchase of this property was the widespread range of  Axis Deer.  These exotics have been imported for years by the larger Texas Game Ranches, but they reproduce and escape rather easily so their range is much of south and western Texas.  They are originally from India, Nepal, and Sri Lanka, but gained US attention when they thrived in Hawaii.  Nearly 6000 of them roam freely throughout Texas today.  Axis deer bucks an weigh as much as 250 pounds with larger than normal antlers, more like elk.  The does average a bit less at around 140-180 pounds.  The meat is highly revered here. 

      There is so season, better yet there is no bag limit or possession limit, so you can bring home as many axis deer as you want as long as you have room in your truck.  The only special thing is you need a non-game permit from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, which differs from the standard state hunting license.  

      These deer are nearly the size of whitetails, yet highly prized for their meat and unique racks.  Anyone who has ever eaten Axis Deer meat raves about it; better than whitetail and make you question your love for beef.  There were about 25 bedded down on our property on arrival.  They frequent the area.  I plan to harvest one during my stay, but will be patient as I clear up some freezer room.  I would like to help conserve and help to maintain the herd during my absence.  

Javelina

     There is also the question of pigs. There are much less of them as there used to be.  Feral hogs still roam the area, but only rarely accompanied by Javelinas.  Wild Boars can range from 100 to 300+ pounds easily while the little Javelinas only run about 80. I checked with the local feed store and stocked up on Apple Deer Corn as well as some Alfalfa.  Axis deer love sweet treats, but are especially drawn to fresh alfalfa.  So I set about baiting several areas of our property for awhile to get them comfortable with us being here.  Deer gun season is in full swing and finding feed is sketchy at best.  I don't plan on harvesting an Axis until January or February.  Much cooler weather then as well.

 Wild Boar

      Another curiosity of this area is moss.  We are in a fairly dry area, but the prevalence of moss surprises me.  It is normal to see Live Oak trees covered with the stuff throughout SE Texas and Louisiana, but I was a bit surprised to see it here.  One of the more curious features is the presence of 'Ball Moss'.  

Live Oak Trees full of moss

Ball Moss

          Ball moss especially favors the shady habitat of the lower and interior limbs of live oaks.  They anchor their pseudo-roots into the bark, but derives no nutrients from the tree.  It lives by absorbing water and nutrients from the atmosphere.  Often seen on the ground, they fall easily from the trees during the least amount of disturbance.  

     On we go with our projects then.  As I said our freezer will need to be paired down some in order put a deer in them.  It could cool off a bit and it would be fine with me.  Plumbing, fencing, and septic are on the agenda, but time dictates all.  Plenty of good meals are coming.         

"When you cook, you take a life.  When you eat meat or fish you take a life.  You must be very respectful of the ingredients and that is very important" 

Joel Robuchon

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Leakey, TX......The Twisted Sisters

              

Hwy 337 heading into Leakey, TX

      1554 miles after departure from our summer home in the beautiful forests of NW Michigan, we arrive at our new winter place in Leakey, TX.  By the way it is pronounced LAA-key.  Located approximately 90 miles west of San Antonio, this embodies the best of the hill country.  Mountains, canyons, crystal clear water, and plenty of wildlife. In fact plenty of axis deer and javelinas frequent our property and the surrounding ranches.  This is a famous ride for bikers in the SW; called the Twisted Sisters for it's lack of straight roads, but plenty of scenery and elevation change.  https://ridermagazine.com/2013/07/08/twisted-sisters-the-texas-hill-countrys-most-famous-trio/  The town has a population of 450 with a total Real County population right at 3,000.  Small town living at it's best with everything else you need less than an hour away.  

First year camp setup

Bedroom Cabin and Cookshack with Deck (fully furnished including shower)

      There are 2 small cabins;  One is a fully furnished bedroom with all the amenities including shower, hot water tank, sink, dressers, and nightstands, and (for now) compostable toilet. The other cabin is a fully furnished cookshack with toaster oven, coffee maker, microwave, hot plate, small refrigerator/freezer, and kitchen rack full of utensils.  Additionally, there is a full RV hookup next to the cabins with water, electricity and septic.  

Bedroom

Bathroom

Kitchen 1

Kitchen 2

      We plan our first winter for adding a fence with a locked gate, a new wood pit cooker, many other small tasks and chores to make it our own.  There will be plenty of R & R and hoping to put some meat in the freezer as well.  This is also serious rattlesnake country, but during this time of year we don't plan on many 'visitors'.  We will explore ways to minimize the appearance of 'Joe-No-Shoulders'.  

King Portable Satellite System

     Once we set up our interim homestead with satellite, WiFi, and checked our phone service we began to settle in.  There is no TV reception here so satellite is a must, the only cell service you can receive here is AT&T so we had all our stuff converted before departure from Michigan.  

      Of course no trip goes without mishap as I soon found out when navigating the narrow driveway. I did very well missing all the live oaks close to the drive EXCEPT ONE.  By the time I saw it the awning lead edge and mount had caught on the tree and twisted the entire setup front to rear.  Also when we powered up the buildings everything worked fine except the well and pump.  Plumber arrived the next day and upon troubleshooting found the well pump was frozen (inactive) after not being used for several years.  The solution would be to re-pipe, replace the pump, and perhaps an entirely new well.  We did check out the city water 'stumping' to the property and found the water to be ALREADY HOOKED UP.  I had them check out the rest of the water system and they found the old 'cabin size' water heater to be kaput.  So we had them schedule us an appointment to completely update the hot water system as well as another spigot closer to the RV pad.  So much for the 'rose colored glasses' we all sometimes wear when property shopping.  All in all it will still be cheaper than a new well.     

      During our first visit to Uvalde, about 40 miles south we also ordered our new custom made wood pit smoker from Texas Longhorn BBQ Pits www.texaslonghornbbqpits.com/index.html   The design is very similar to our current model in NW Michigan, but a bit smaller with no vertical smoker shelves; just an output flu/smokestack.  It does also come with a standard floor mount as well as a bumper hitch mount for the truck if desired, but ours will stay put in camp.  We should get it in about 5 weeks. Uvalde is also the closest town with all the big box stores as well as Walmart, HEB and other desired retailers.   We stopped at Morales Feed on the way back and picked up 300 pounds of apple deer corn.  Have some alfalfa on order for next week. We have about 2 dozen axis deer and half a dozen whitetail frequenting our place;  want to keep them around.      

      There is also garbage service or transfer station to look into, firewood, optometrist to fulfill the  prescriptions I got before departure, and the whole question of homestead exemption in two states, (and how to get around that) etc.  HOORAY,  there is a laundromat close.  Of course I will be contacting my neighbors to introduce ourselves as well as investigate the local ranch hunting situation for us locals. 

      This entire winter is a work in progress.  We have not only 2 homes, but now 2 sets of chores as well.  The secret is to whittle away at it a bit at a time.  Not too many projects or things begin to stack up.  There is plenty to do and lots of time to do it.  Relaxation and exploration are still pretty high up there on our scale of priorities.  I think we will have several friends come to visit us this winter either by car, truck, or Harley.  Room we got, food I'll make.  There is also the Rio Frio River Fest, BBQ Competition at the San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo, and Luckenbach is never very far away.  Country music concerts and camping nearly every weekend.  True, at some point we'll probably build, but for now this is as good as it gets.  For us...….perfect. 

"I have said that Texas is a state of mind, but I think it is more than that.  It is a mystique closely approximating a religion.  

John Steinbeck

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'Tis the set of the sail that decides the goal, not the storm of life....

Brynmawr Farm   Kalkaska, MI

      Once again we depart to the south.  We'll miss our beautiful homestead and NW Michigan, but it's time to escape the snow.  Quarantine my ass, we're on the road.  COVID-19 is still a threat throughout our itinerary (in fact it's increasing) and we will take appropriate precautions.  This year we have a more defined route and destination in mind due to last winter's purchase of winter property in South Texas.  We'll spend much of, but not all our winter there.  We will also haul several items there to be left for future winters to include a 10 lb. propane bottle and starter wand, a couple of fishing poles, our shore cooker and pot setup, a portable black water tank, gambrel for hanging/butchering, a few accoutrements for the cabins, and some extra hunting supplies.  I'm sure a little more each year will be involved.  We also have our new satellite system installed and switched our cellular and wireless internet to AT&T so we're pretty much covered even in the deep canyons where our winter place is located.  

      Our freezers are full as well.  Fish, pasties, pot pies, sausage, clams, venison shank, burger, OTR meals, and vegees, oh my.  It took us three days with the usual boondock at Walmart in Pontiac, IL and an overnight in Ozark, MO next to Lambert's Restaurant to reach our first destination in Marlow, OK.

Boondocking Walmart Pontiac, IL

      By the way if you've never been there, Lambert's is a wonderful country style restaurant with family style dining and some incredible southern cooking.  They also have locations in Sikeston, MO and Foley, AL. Always watch out for the 'throwed rolls'.  https://throwedrolls.com/lamberts-cafe-ii/  Delivery to the RV park is only $2 and the food is easily worth it.....an easy night cooking for me. THE VERY DEFINITION OF SOUTHERN COMFORT FOOD.  I had 7 pieces of absolutely perfect catfish with some fried taters and onions, biscuit, cornbread, and sliced peaches.  Barb loved her HUGE chicken fried steak with mashed taters n gravy, roll, and sliced peaches.  It was DELICIOUS.  Price was $40 delivered.  We had half a chicken fried steak, rolls, and fried taters as leftovers to be used the next breakfast.  

  

Lamberts Cafe Ozark, MO

      Our grandson Brock is now 18+ years old and working on his degree in nursing.  As usual we stayed at the Town & Country RV Park; full hookups at the reasonable daily rate of $30 for all the bells and whistles even in a small town.  A very good park with nice, clean facilities.  Due to the COVID the bathrooms and showers were cleaned spotlessly daily.  Marlow is a small town with friendly folks and good food.  Always good to get back to the land of chicken gizzards, very good Q, and some fine in-laws. We always feel welcome here. 

North Llano River RV Park

      We stayed here for 4 days then continued south towards our destination.  One more overnight in Junction, TX at North Llano RV Park.  $37 for full hookups, not long now.  I do have to comment on the toll roads in Oklahoma.  Not a fan of them I have endured traveling these as the most direct method to visit our grandson.  Every couple of years the rates rise, but this year it was obscene.  We traveled 290 miles from the Oklahoma/Missouri border to the town of Marlow in SW OK.  It costs us $28.25!  The roads are good except in downtown Tulsa and OKC, but this is an increase from the $20 it cost us last year.  When is it enough?!?!?!  The cheapest diesel has been $1.61 in Springfield, MO while the most expensive was $2.49 in Hamel, IL.  We averaged 13.1 mpg and AT & T wireless internet was flawless throughout the trip.  Brock's first semester 'clinicals and exams' are next week and we wish him the best of luck.  

Rio Frio     Leakey, TX

Downtown Leakey, TX

"Texas is ok if you want to settle down and do your own thing quietly, but it's not for outrageous people and I was always outrageous"  

Janis Joplin

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