It's A Long Road.....

Arriving in Tok on the ALCAN

      ......and each step is only the beginning.  The opening lyrics from the movie 'First Blood'.  Very nearly apropos for a journey of this length.  Welcome to Alaska and the 'Coldest Inhabited Community in North America'.  We arrive in Tok, Alaska after 14 days on the road and 1200 miles from Dawson Creek, B.C.  We weren't in much of a hurry this time.  Although we did have to contend with 2 forest fires which made us wary of our routing at times.  Through which we stayed at Fort Nelson, Tetsa River, Watson Lake, Whitehorse, Haines Junction, Haines, before arriving in the 49th state.
      It is still 90 miles once we arrive at the border of Alaska till you arrive in the first community of Tok.  Port Alcan does not offer anything, but customs.  The Bordertown Truck Stop is closed. Either gas up at Beaver Creek, YT (18 miles before US Customs) or Northway Jct. (40 miles inside Alaska).  Cell phones ON, although service in Alaska can be spotty. www.tokalaskainfo.com
       But, I digress...…..leaving Dawson Creek we traveled 281 miles to Fort Nelson.  A pretty basic one stop overnight.  Nice community with all the amenities.  Triple G Hideaway RV CG full hookups here CA>US $35.

Triple G Hideaway Fort Nelson

      The next day was a short one (70 miles) as we wanted to stop over at the Tetsa River Area.  5 years ago we camped at the Provincial Park by the river near here, which was very scenic.  No services; much like a State Forest Campground.  This year we wanted to stay at the campground at Tetsa River Lodge.  A quaint, scenic setting in the forest behind the lodge.  25 campsites with water and electricity (supplied by generator 5 a.m. till 9 p.m.), WiFi, showers, laundry, and a dump station.  The WiFi is spotty at best.  CA>US$25.96 The lodge contains a small café, gift shop, and gas/diesel available here as well.  We enjoyed our peaceful overnight and the next morning made our way back to the café early for some coffee and their WORLD FAMOUS CINNABUNS OF THE GALLACTIC CLUSTER.

Tetsa River Camp

Cinnabun of the Gallactic Cluster

      Leaving here we traveled west and UP.  You cross the tallest pass in the Northern Rockies Canadian National Park that is also perhaps the most scenic.  There is an incredible rustic campground on top at Summit Lake, but this time of year it is still frozen with LOTS of snow on the ground.  Later in the summer it is a great overnight opportunity.  Views, vistas, summits, and hiking.  The area supports a large population of Stone Sheep.

Canadian Northern Rockies, Summit Lake, B.C.

      Coming off the pass we head NW along Muncho Lake.  It is VERY IMPORTANT NOT TO STOP FOR GAS DURING THIS STRETCH.  It has the highest of prices for the entire highway.  If needed gas up before here at Toad River Lodge or after at Liard Hot Springs.  My cousin warned me about this 5 years ago and I still tripped up and stopped in...…….CA>US$7.98 gallon for diesel.  Sometimes I still sit gingerly when I remember it.  Nonetheless it is important not to let your tank get much below half before you start looking for gas during this stretch.  I gassed up at Toad River and it was still $4.58.

Liard Hot Springs

www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/liard_rv_hs/

      At Liard Hot Springs there is a campground here for overnight (or longer) guests and the main attraction, the Liard Hot Springs are a delicious distraction to all the road miles either coming or going.  From here it is a short distance further to our overnight at Watson Lake, now in the Yukon Territory.  This is another small sized town with all the needed amenities, including their main attraction, The Sign Post Forest.  This was started in 1942 by a homesick GI stationed there helping to build the Alaskan Highway.  He put up a sign post pointing in the direction of his hometown, Danville, IL 2348 miles.  From there it just grew with every passing motorist.  As of summer 2018 there are over 88,000 signposts snaking back through the forest for several acres. Every visitor is encouraged to add one of their own, including ours from 2014.   

 Watson Lake, YT Signpost Forest

      We stayed at Downtown RV Park, a large graveled off parking lot with 80+ large side by side back in or pull through sites with full hookups.  They offer full hookups, showers, laundry, and WiFi although the WiFi is only good for about an hour tops.  It is next door to the Sign Post Forest and within walking distance of anything else you night need while here, including a grocery store next door.   CA>US $37.  The Alaska Highway undergoes nearly constant roadwork in order to keep up with the demands of the weather.  We ran into a 5 mile patch of one lane work just south of Teslin.  Not bad, muddy at the end. 

     Waiting in line...ALCAN Road Work  

      From here it is a 271 mile journey to Whitehorse, YT.  At 28,000 population, this is the largest city in the Yukon.  We stayed 2 days for chillin' and a grocery stop.  This was supposed to be a 'boondock' stop with us setting up our local settlement in the Walmart Parking lot along with about 3 dozen RVs per night enroute either to or from Alaska.  However, it was NOT meant be as Walmart abruptly changed their long standing policy.  They caved into pressure from locals saying there is too much noise, partying, and trash.  It is RV Park camping ONLY in Whitehorse from now on. So for us it was back to the Pioneer Park RV Park, just south of town.  Simple, large park (not fancy) with laundry, showers, propane, garage & maintenance services, gas pumps with a 3 cents per liter discount, and anything else you might want for CA>US $24.75/day.  On our way back from Haines we boondocked along the shores of Kluane Lake so as to lessen our final day distance into Tok.  

       

Pioneer RV Park Whitehorse, Yukon

Black Bear (by BJ Hilts)

Wood Bison (by BJ Hilts)

      During this leg of the trip I prepared The BABS with Tomato Soup, Cajun Crawfish Green Bean Casserole, Southern Shrimp Salad, MISO South & Lumpia, and BBQ Beef Sausage with Beans & Mac Salad to name a few. 

                                       

Tomato Soup & the BABS (Bacon, Apple, Blue Cheese, Swiss) grilled

Crawfish Green Bean Casserole

       Cheapest diesel this leg was CA>US$3.45 in Dawson Creek, the most expensive was CA>US$4.58 in Toad River.  The costs are going up regardless of exchange rate.  Our mileage averaged 12.4 mpg.  Arriving in Tok we stayed at Sourdough Campground, just south of town.  We have stayed here twice before and it is perfect for us.  Full service, including cafe, laundry, and truck/rv wash for $34 @ day. There are new owners here now, but they have continued the same range of hospitalities. We plan on staying here in Tok for a week, collecting our first mail forwarding and a few more campfires.  This is just the beginning of Alaska.  We'll be here for 3 more months.   Carry on my wayward son.....

"I go to seek a great perhaps"  

John Green

WiFi courtesy of Sourdough Campground 

Haines, Alaska

      This is one of those places we didn't visit on our last trip and as such wanted to see this time.  Haines Junction is a mere 96 miles west of Whitehorse on the Alaskan Highway at MM 1014.  We overnighted at the Fas-Gas Station's small seasonal RV park at CA>US$22.50 with full hookups both to and from the coast.  The village lies on the edge of the vast and spectacular Kluane National Park and Reserve.  From here it is just 150 miles down Yukon Hwy. 3 to the village on the coast.  US Customs and Border lies 40 miles north of Haines.  It is important to note this crossing is only open 8 a.m. till 10 p.m.  No 24 hour crossings.  

South on Highway 3

The border 40 miles outside Haines, AK

      The road is in good shape for traveling with a large RV and passes by countless views and panoramas of the nearby Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park and the villages of Klukshu, Klukwan, and Covenant Post before arriving in one of the most scenic villages I have ever seen.   About 8 miles north of Haines construction begins with many miles of dusty gravel.  We arrived dirty and dusty.  Once in the village you are only 19 miles south on the bay from Skagway, AK or 68 nautical miles north of Juneau as well.  The lack of roads in this archipelago prohibits most travel aside from plane or ferry. 

      The village itself was originally inhabited by Tlingit Tribes until contacted by Russian fur traders in 1741.  Once gold was discovered further north the area grew considerably, threatening the local culture.  Friction and border differences between the U.S. and Canada resulted in a US Army post being built here in 1902 and remained until 1947.  The culture remains native to this day with the Chilkat Tribes inhabiting the area.  The Tlingit Tribes were the original architects of the Totem Pole and many examples of this still inhabit the area.  

     We set up camp at Haines Hitchup RV Park.  They offer 92 full hookups on grassy, level spots, cable TV, WiFi, restrooms, showers, and laundry.  This is at a U.S price of $51 @ day, pricey.  There are only two RV parks in town; choices are limited.  While here we were once again in the land of Verizon so we called home and family.   The Southeast Alaska State Fair was in full swing when we arrived so the town was full.  We were unable to attend as they combine the fair with their Annual Craft Beer Festival and so advance ticket sales were limited.  While here we visited the Northern Bald Eagle Preservation Center Chilkat Preserve, the Jilkaat Kwaan Tlingit Heritage Center, and of course shopping was in order for the chauffeur's wife.  No complaints from me either, I bought a new bitchin' fillet knife from a local craftsman.  

Welcome to Haines, Alaska

Haines, Alaska

Cruise ship waiting on tides

Chilkat River Eagle

Jilkaat Kwaan Tlingit Cultural Center

      My menu for this stop included Fried Catfish, Broccoli Raab Calzones, and Shakshuka, among other things.  Still whittling down those freezers. 

Broccoli Raab Garlic Sausage Cheese Calzones

Shakshuka Queso Fresco Vegetable Hot Dip

      In addition we dined in the village at the Bamboo Room for lunch.  Barb had a delicious Bacon Bleu Cheeseburger while I went with the Halibut Fish n Chips.  Great food, but I always initially forget the impact of seasonal tourism and SURPRISE prices.  Lunch was $42.  We had a good couple of days here exploring this isolated area.  I encourage a visit if you are coming to Alaska and can spare the time.  We paid $4.09 @ gallon for diesel prior to departure.  We are off now; back to Haines Jct. then NW to Tok, Alaska with one day boondocking along the shores of Kluane Lake enroute.

"When students are taught as respected human beings instead of being talked at, and these are two different things, students will respect you and want to work and understand more" 

David Katzeek, Tlingit 

WiFi courtesy of Haines Hitch UP RV Park

Mile Zero City....the Capital of Peace

      We arrived in Dawson Creek after our 4 day journey from Great Falls, MT.  This was a new route to us as 5 years ago we took the Western Route north from Seattle through British Columbia to Dawson Creek.  This route is more direct as we had no plans to stop in Western Washington this side of the journey.  This year once we crossed the border we traversed Alberta, British Columbia, and finally the Yukon Territory.

Sweetwater, MT border crossing

      Departing Great Falls we traveled 316 miles north (filling up on our side of the border) and boondocked in Calgary at Walmart.  Calgary is NOT a small village and navigating off and back on the highway here was it's own adventure.  Fried Crab Stuffed Catfish w/Coleslaw was on the menu here.  From there we continued 185 miles further north to Edmonton.  We navigated to the west of Edmonton on a bypass road and missed all the main traffic.  We stayed just out of town at the Glowing Embers CG at a CA> US price of $35. We had all the amenities here.  A nice RV park, but lots of full timers living here.  Potato Cucumber Garlic Sausage Salad was our main course this evening.  Very much like German Potato Salad; warm sausage, everything else chilled.  

Glowing Embers RV Park 

Potato Garlic Sausage Radish n Cuke Salad

  

      All of our travel the past two days has been 4 lane highway driving.  We made no real stops for site seeing.  Big cities are big cities.  We don't feel like we missed much.  Our last enroute stop was 285 miles northwest, planning to boondock at another Walmart in Grand Prairie, Alberta.  The road here, although still 4 lane is much different.  The Montana border to Edmonton is basically flat farmland with many miles of wheat and other grains as well as oil wells.  Once you head NW from Edmonton the terrain vastly changes into the boreal forests of the north.  Miles upon miles of hills and trees as far as the eye can see.  Plenty of signs to watch for moose, but we saw none on our pass through.  We stopped once for gas in Valleyview; about 20 miles west from where Dad used to moose hunt many years ago.  Wish he and I were going there now.

West Central Alberta 

      But on our arrival in Grand Prairie we found the WM parking lot to be very small and the only 2 RVs in there took way too much room so we traveled further on.  We eventually stayed up the road overnight at the Hythe Municipal Park for a decent fee of $19.79.  Bare hookups, no extravagancies, but it's just overnight.  This is a short 42 miles from Dawson Creek.  We dined on Cranberry Sausage and Rice Casserole this night.  Two mornings I cooked breakfast, the other one we ate at Tim Hortons.  The sausage they use in Canada for their breakfast biscuits is incredible.

      We are now in British Columbia.  Dawson Creek is a decent size town of 12,978.  Any and all services or facilities you might need can be found here.  There is a Walmart, but we also enjoy the Canadian Tire Store, which is a cross between Walmart and Tractor Supply.

  

      It is also the beginning (or terminus) of the Alaskan Highway, depending on which way you are heading.  Near the monument celebrating this mileage marker is a very good Visitor Center which I recommend you visit.  Built as a result of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, this famous highway spans over 1200 miles and was constructed from March thru October of 1942, taking 10,000 men and costing $140 million.  At the visitor center on the NW part of town there is any and all information you may need for the journey ahead.  Not just your standard tourist info, but real maps, charts, and a list of any and all services you might need at the mileage markers.  From here on out, everything is measured in mileage, such as DC 373.6 Summit Lake Campground.  Campground only, no services.  DC 891.1 Gas, convenience store, lodging.  These publications are updated yearly and very valuable. 

Dawson Creek Tourism Center

Photo courtesy of  BC Tourism

      We stayed at the Mile Zero Campground.  It is located on the NW edge of town and offers easy access to any of the services as well as the ALCAN itself is right out the door.  It is recommended to have reservations here as it is a main stopover travelers on the ALCAN, and usually always full.  www.mile0park.ca/campground   There are 80 sites with hookups and laundry.  Cell phones ON here.  They have free WiFi which to me is important to check emails and play in my online chess tournament.  It is $36 CA>US per night here. We were welcomed to the news that the city had a water main supply break and it would be fixed within days.  They did let us water up and stay at our site for a reduced rate of CA>US $18.59 till water was returned.  It is a welcome respite on the way north or south.  All groceries are higher here, but beer is always a surprise with the price for a case of Kokanee (Canadian version of Busch Lite) running about $35 CA>US.  While here we dined on SPAM Ramen Bowls, Cajun Hambone Soup, and the Lamb Chorizo Crockpot Stew.  Additionally we dined out for our anniversary at Mr. Mike's Steakhouse in town.  Good food.

Mile 0 RV Park

Cajun Ham Bone Soup

Crockpot Spanish Lamb & Chorizo

Ramen Noodle Bowl & Lumpia

Nothing beats a good anniversary steak dinner

      832 miles during this leg and a total of 2321 miles from home in Michigan.  Gas prices have been a surprise here as the Canadian Dollar is taking a beating lately.  The current Canadian Dollar is worth only .74 US Dollars.  We paid a low of $ 3.28 at Sweetwater, MT (border) and a high of $3.68  CA>US in Onoway, AL for diesel during this segment.  This is nearly a full $2 cheaper per gallon than it was 5 years ago.  With 2 out of 3 days enduring a headwind we averaged 12 mpg.  Diesel for our fill up prior to leaving DC was CA>US $3.45.  After 5 days of rest, relaxation, and restocking we begin the REAL ADVENTURE.  Cell phones OFF again.  Come along.  It will inspire you to your own Alaskan Adventure one day.

"Plunge boldly into the thick of life, and seize it where you will, it is always interesting"  

Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

WiFi courtesy of Mile Zero Campground

'To the Lover of Wilderness' John Muir

      It was a quick turnaround at home this spring, being there only 12 days.  We have always wanted to go back to the 49th state ever since our first visit 5 years ago.  This has been in the works for the past 3 years, but due to circumstances beyond our control only came together just this spring.                     Everything at the house is prepped and planned for during our absence.  In fact a week after our departure we were informed by Amerigas that during their yearly inspection our propane pig needed replaced so we coordinated that with our neighbor.  Funny, never had a yearly inspection before.  We departed Kalkaska April 29th, a day early as Barb's doctor appointment was 8 a.m. and we knew we could make a half day journey instead of staying overnight and leaving all 450 miles for Day #2.  We arrived the first night at the Kewadin Casino in Christmas, MI.  A quick 210 miles on a half day.  This reduces our next day to just 220 miles.  It also allowed us to sleep in a bit on the 2nd day.  We have never stayed here before, but during our gas stop I realized no one was occupying the RV spots on the edge of the parking lot.  Five sites on the edge of the parking lot w/30 or 50 amp hookups (no water) for FREE.  

      The remaining 4 days put us in Ironwood, MI...….Fargo, ND...…..Beach ND...….and finally Great Falls, MT.  Here we will bivouac for 7 days to relax, catch up on groceries, supplies, and even some sleep.   With boondocking our stays at Christmas, Ironwood, and Beach saved us $90, while the stay at Fargo cost us $30.  Due to previous lessons learned we weighed the RV at a CAT Scale in Superior, WI;  900 lbs under GVWR.  

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Christmas, MI FREE 30 amp hookups

Red River Valley Fairgrounds Fargo, ND

Beach, ND Truck Stop Boondocking

      Rolling into Great Falls we were met with a surprise.  The RV undercarriage seal and cover had come undone and was hanging down and flapping on the road.  It was a terribly windy day and I can only surmise that the fasteners either worked loose or broke free.  On our arrival, the Camp Host gave me the # of a local Mobile RV Repairman.  He scheduled our service onsite within 3 days.  He not only fixed the issue, but installed 3X the screws needed to ensure bonding and hopefully eliminating further problems...…...all for $40.  Yeah, I'm not skilled.  I also ended up replacing a tire that had serious scalloping on the inside tread in just one spot (balancing?).  The rest were fine.

   RV undercarriage cover (dangling to the left) needed repair

      We stayed, as we always do, at the Malmstrom AFB Fam Camp.  This is another of those veteran perks.  Located at the edge of the base it offers full hookups, laundry, WiFi, and easy access to the base for just $ 25/day.  Great Falls is a beautiful city located just an hour from the Rockies and offers any and all the conveniences and services one might need.  For us this would include an oil change and full checkup for the truck and pick up needed long distance supplies for the trip north.  Unfortunately the local Chevrolet dealership policy is that we use their oil and not bring our own  As long as it is diesel and synthetic I can accept that.  Of course the price reflects this.  We normally use Shell Rotella.  When we travel such as this we carry two of everything:  spare tires, DEF, oil, propane bottles, gas cans both unleaded and diesel, etc. 

Malmstrom AFB Fam Camp

      We also take the time each trip to visit with an old USAF buddy, Buddy Helton who lives in Great Falls.  We were stationed together 43 years ago, but I swear he hasn't aged a day.  Me, on the other hand...…yeah, well.  We also make it a point to visit our favorite 'hangout' while here; Howards Pizza.  Probably nothing that special, but we LOVE it as a reminder of days gone by.  We have a beer or two at the Stein Haus which is right next door and order a pizza which comes from a window between the two businesses, just as it always has.  The pizza is still great, the pool table and fire pit are still there, and now there is even an large supply of micro brews from which to choose.  The most amazing thing is that we still order the large ground beef/sausage pizza just like we did all those years ago as it was all we could afford at the time, but it still tastes just as good.  I'm sure they have other flavors just as tasty, but this is our 'Retro Rodeo'.  

Stein Haus n Howard's Pizza

      Additionally, I prepared several meals while here, including Bangers n Mash, Pineapple Baked Salmon, and Fried Quail to name a few.  Whittling down those freezers for Alaska.  

Bangers n Mash

Crispy Fried Quail

Blue n Gold Hash.....just add eggs

      We enjoyed our brief stay here as we always do.  Barb's allergies did play hell with her and required a day or two to reacclimate.  Even the RV work was at a fair price.  Nearly 1600 miles since we left Kalkaska, MI with many more left to do.  We paid a minimum of $2.94 in Fargo, ND and a maximum of $3.14 in Christmas, MI for diesel on this leg.  We averaged 12.5 mpg, mostly due to incredibly windy conditions that last two days.  It will get more expensive after we cross the border.  From here we head straight north on I-15 to the border and further beyond.....Calgary.  

One last note: for those interested in this trip we highly recommend 'The Milepost', a yearly publication of the Alaskan Highway.  It is updated yearly and provides any and all information a traveler might need such as maps, mileages, reports, dining, campgrounds, site seeing, and services just to name a few.  It is a must read on this trip.  You can order these online for find them at any reputable bookstore.  

"The mountains are calling and I must go"  

John Muir 

WiFi courtesy of Malmstrom AFB Fam Camp